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Thread: To Dip or to Blast that is the Question

  1. #11

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    Well...we don't have anyone in our AO that does the dip method any more. I think the EPA has gotten to alot of them. We decided that we wont start the process till maybe this fall so we're going to give it a face lift (i.e. fresh coat of paint and some puddy) for the summer.

    I have a media blaster who I've worked with before that does a very good job. He uses plastic beeds, corn husks, coco shells and a few other media to achieve the right job. He also uses a primer (priming is included in the cost of the job) that is incredible. He did some parts for me a few years ago and I didn't get around to painting them for another year and they were still as good as when I got them from the blaster. So I'll have him blast and prime when we get to that stage.

    I too am interested in the dry ice method....
    Zone holster maker

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    28

    Default

    One of our departments at work has a dry ice blaster. We use it for cleaning crystal and glass prior to bonding. It leaves an incredibly clean surface and does not etch the crystal. We use it specifically to remove residues that might interfere with our bonding processes. The machine however is not a standard sandblaster. It is specially made to use dry ice. You feed the machine pelletized dry ice (usually available at places that refill fire extiguishers). The pellets are somewhat smaller than the pelletized ice some fast food joints use for drinks. Before anyone asks, no I can't blast parts for anyone (including myself). If I remember correctly, our machine is manufactured by Coldjet. It is a fantastic machine (for our purposes), but I can't speak to its abilities/capabilities on removing paint, rust, etc. You can check these guys out at www.coldjet.com. I am sure there are dozens of other companies making these things. One of the nice things about it is that there is no blasting media. The only trash that would be left on the shop floor or in nooks and crannies is what is removed from your material. In other words, no sand, baking soda, glass beads, plastic beads, etc on the shop floor, only rust and paint and dirt that comes off what you blast. It does however, generate a large amount of fog. It is also non-toxic unless you are removing toxins from what you are blasting (leaded paint, chemicals, CARC paint, etc.)

  3. #13

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    I've read through some of the dry ice blasting information found online. It appears to be a superior method for many uses. What I intended to locate was some disadvantages of its use versus other forms of blasting (sand, corn, etc.), but could not identify any detrimental aspects. Could it be that the equipment and material are expensive compared to other blasting techniques?

    If not, this would prove to be a great tool for home restoration, as well as vehicle bodies. Being that some folks here are in the trade of painting contractors, I'm curious as to the industry acceptance of this form of blasting for paint removal and wood siding preparations in their business, or if they have any experience with this blasting method. In the past, I have anticipated using corn, as the debris would be considered biodegradable and therefore wouldn't require an extensive cleanup. Dry ice blasting appears to be a better option.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Another great biodegradable media is Walnut Shells.

    The big issue though in the environmental aspect is what you remove. That seems to be the biggest issue.

    Many new degreasers claim to be biodegradable as well, but the grease they remove is not.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyscycle View Post
    The big issue though in the environmental aspect is what you remove. That seems to be the biggest issue.
    I simply need to remove 100 year old, and multiple layers of, lead paint...and potentially clean a little asbestos siding. So, I'm pretty confident in the subtle environmental impact, and mostly just concerned with the media debris.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by rip68 View Post
    Dry Ice??? I've never heard of such "Tom Foolery"!!!
    lol, Actualy could you just elaborate on the dry ice procedure and benefits for us noobs.
    Also wont blasting with air, clear out any residual silica debre from cracks or crevices?
    Google the Dry Ice blasting. If you can find it in your area it is the way to go. It is a newer tech, and only a few places do it.

    As to blasting with air... Nope. You can air blast, vacuum and wash all you want, and you will never get all the blasting media out of your vehicle. Too many hidden corners, too much static cling, too much rust and cobwebs and stuff you can't see to get lodged in.

    Zach

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vacca rabite View Post
    Google the Dry Ice blasting. If you can find it in your area it is the way to go. It is a newer tech, and only a few places do it.

    As to blasting with air... Nope. You can air blast, vacuum and wash all you want, and you will never get all the blasting media out of your vehicle. Too many hidden corners, too much static cling, too much rust and cobwebs and stuff you can't see to get lodged in.

    Zach
    I agree. I have only ever blasted one complete vehicle, and I wished I hadn't. It was a total mess that kept coming back time after time until I finally got everything primed and sealed twice. I still found that stuff sifting out of body seams a year later.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  8. #18

    Default Same Here

    Media is still pouring out of cracks in my truck. The truck floor is again all white from it. Air gun and vacuum over and over and still it comes out. It is a job to keep it off the new primer and/or paint. Also, it is wedged in all the seams so a packing knife blade in the seams, to clean out the beads, is also needed.

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