Disc Brakes Arrived!!!!

[FSJGuy]

One side is (semi) finished. I have the caliper installed and I mounted a wheel to see if I had any interference with the caliper. None. It turns smooth all the way around. This is with custom 1 piece wheels using the stock centers, however.

FWIW, I think the trick with the studs is to press them in partially and then mount them on a wheel and tighten the nut to draw them in square. Mine were a little off. I managed to get the wheel on with a BFH . Once I tightened all the lug nuts, the wheel came off without a problem. Doing that must have seated the studs in place correctly.

[Hammer]

The trick with the studs, bearing races, etc. is to put the hub on top the wood stove, and put the studs and/or races in the freezer.
I have done so many of these blasted things on cement trucks lately it's not even funny!
But it works, and it works WELL. Get that hub bloody well HOT (wearing insulated gloves really helps). And those studs/races will almost fall in.

Take pictures of your progress, boring, but not something we have a lot of here.

[brute4c]

That is the "approved" method for changing the races in F-4 wheels....wheel in oven, race in freezer...thick insulated gloves...did it on a Toyota 4WD recently...new race did drop right in...just needed to level it bfore it swelled.

[IHWillys]

...
FWIW, I think the trick with the studs is to press them in partially and then mount them on a wheel and tighten the nut to draw them in square. ...

Thanks for the tip. I've had a M715 front kit sitting here for a few years now. I bought it when Ray first announced his intention to move to Thailand(his wife's native country) and didn't want to miss out. I had one of his M37 kits and knew the quality was high. Now he's training someone here in the US to take-over the hub alteration process while Ray will continue to manufacture the brackets and such, and it will all be coordinated through Dave Cirillo, I believe.

Yes, a complete axle swap can be done for similar $, but then one needs to match the rear lug pattern, gearing, etc.

FSJGuy, I'm in northern CO too.

Ken

PS, the hot/cold parts method is a good one too but I surmise that with these NOS hubs that have no lug spline cut in them that a press of some sort will be required regardless of differing temps between them.

[FSJGuy]

The brackets are on (The correct way. The instructions illustrate a Dodge setup, and the 715 setup is reverse) and the hubs and calipers are installed. The only things left are to replace the hard lines and instal the new MC. I'm going to try the stock FSJ booster and MC, since that is a disc/drum setup. I have the extra large booster from the later FSJ's. So far, it's looking REALLY SWEET. Pix and a writeup will come. Promise. <g>

[brute4c]

I would love to see the pics and writeup....would be a nice tech article addition!!

[FSJGuy]

I boogered up the threads on my second hub getting the studs back in, so I had a local machine shop clean em up for me. Everythings back on course. I'm waiting on my $53 inner hub seal to come in from Napa. It's coming from Kentucky to CO, so it might be a while (weather), which is fine. No sense in some poor semi driver ending up in a ditch on account of a lousy auto part.

But you'd think for $53 they could have overnight-ed it! LOL!

Ken, we'll have to get together sometime. PM me or send me an email from www.cfsja.org. Send an email to the list owner and I'll get it. (I'm one of the moderators, we all get those emails.)

[Barrman]

The next time you need seals, try AB Linn. I got seals for all 4 corners last year for $16.00 total. This was just after I spent $25 each for the rear ones, so I am not rubbing it in, just letting you know of a better price.

[FSJGuy]

No, I wasn't thinking you were rubbing it in. Thanks for the info. I'll remember that next time. Interestingly enough, NAPA was the CHEAPEST. Checker wanted $75!!!

[FSJGuy]

Bringing this post back from the dead..... <g>

I re-routed my front hard brake lines and installed my FSJ master cylinder today. I picked up a HF vac. pump/bleeder and bled the fronts. The rears have speed bleeders on them, so they are easier.

I still didn't have any bolts for the hubs, so I stuck the transfercase into E-drive (locked) and went to test the brakes. When I put one of my tires back on, I saw that it was low. No big deal, there's a gas station around the corner. Off I go. Brakes are OK, about as good as before, but not great.

I get about 300 feet and that low tire slips off the bead! D'oh! I guess I should have thrown it in the other truck and taken it down to air up. Now I had to WALK back home, get my floor jack and impact and drive back. I changed out the tire with my smaller spare that's always sitting in the bed. I discovered that the original tire is too d*mn heavy to lift into the bed of the 715. I wiggle it into my FSJ, instead. I drive the 715 to the station to air up the SPARE, which is a little low. I drive it back home, WALK back to my FSJ and bring that truck home, too. All that just to air up a tire....

The good news is that I found my stock rim doesn't rub on the disc brake assembly! <g>

Sooooo..... I'm wondering about several different scenarios here:

A: The master cylinder can't put enough volume/pressure for the double piston calipers since it was designed for a single piston caliper.

B: The front junction block that splits the front line to go to the left and right wheel is actually the FSJ brake light switch. Could this also be a proportioning valve and causing low pressure on the front lines? There are 3 lines out and one of them is plugged.

C: The master cylinder (used) is bad.

D: I really don't know how to bleed brakes and need to do it again.

Choose wisely <g> and suggestions/ideas welcome. TIA