Use for M725 storage box!

[jeeper]

The alternator itself doesn't need to spin any more than 3600 RPM. It would be a pretty good match if the pulley size on the engine matches the pulley size on the alternator for a 1:1 ratio.

So how do you plan to test amps?

Generally amps are relevant for fuse protection and wire sizing. The wire is sized/fused for how many amps it can safely carry without damage to it's insulation. Sometimes a fuse is used to protect a device but mainly a fuse is used to protect the wire. Electrical fires are caused when the insulation overheats.

Another consideration if you plan to run the alternator at full capacity is cooling. You can run the alternator at 100% duty cycle but you need to be sure it can dissipate the heat that will be generated at that high output. You may need a fan to move enough air to keep everything cool including the engine.

[Blitz]

Good info on the rpm's and pulley sizes.

That Briggs engine probably runs 3600 rpm MAX, full throttle.
I might need to stand corrected on that, but in sizing enines for generators .. they either specify 3600 rpm or 1800 rpm.

I dont know an easy way to TACH the engine... and I'm not sure it matters if the alt is putting out enough juice to run the load.

For testing/ showing the amps... a dedicated amp meter can be had for under 5 bucks here: This one goes to 100 amps MAX.
Most car "gauge type" ampmeters go to 60 amps. If not only 50 amps... and they cost a LOT more. Its cause they are chrome and ready to mount in the dash.

This looks cheap and easy... almost disposable... Kinda cool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-36-mini-Re...item1c3e95486d

[86gwrhino]

The alternator looks like a 10si, and the 63 amp version doesn't put out 63amps until 8000rpm. At 3600rpm it will be putting out about 52-53 amps, and it doesn't start putting anything out untill 1000rpm. Go to acdelcotechconnect.com and you can find a performance curve chart for it.

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[Blitz]

The alternator looks like a 10si, and the 63 amp version doesn't put out 63amps until 8000rpm. At 3600rpm it will be putting out about 52-53 amps, and it doesn't start putting anything out untill 1000rpm. Go to acdelcotechconnect.com and you can find a performance curve chart for it.

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Sweeeet.....

Awesome find 86gwrhino.
that is sure gonna come in handy.

Pump curves, engine curves and alternator curves...
Dig em ... Makes sense to my thinking.

Thanks Man !!

[Panther]

The sliders I got are rated for the weight of this set up but are not happy with the vibrations. I'll have to get something more heavy duty to run it again.

Once I can fire it up again I'll see what volts and amps it's producing, then calculate watts. Thanks for these formulas.

This is what I know if this alt:

Alternator Case Type: Cast
Alternator Finish: Same as OEM
Amperage Rating: 63 amps
Fan Included: Yes
Fan Type: External Fan
Internal Regulator: Yes
Lester Number: 7282-3
Plug Type: PC_151
Pulley Diameter: 66 mm
Pulley Grooves: 1
Pulley Included: Yes
Pulley Type: V-Belt
Regulator Included: Yes
Regulator Plug Clocking: 09:00
Regulator Type: Internal Regulator
Voltage: 12 v

In the meantime, I put an oil separator for the york

And hung the tank (will add another brace)

[jeeper]

To measure amps you can use an amp meter or an amp gauge. They work the same way in a DC circuit. The electricity actually flows through the device. Without something to use the electricity being produced you won't see amps. The only way I can think of to test if the alternator can actually put out 63 amps is to create a load that equals 63 amps.

My point is you don't really need to "test" amps. If the alternator is putting out voltage, whatever you connect as a load will use what it needs. If you run a headlight for example, assuming it is 55 watts and assuming the alternator is producing 14.5 volts the headlamp will be drawing approximately 3.79 amps. The meter won't read more than that.

The formula is power=volts x amps. The term "power" and "Watts" mean the same here. Using a little algebra we can solve any of the three by converting the equation. If we know the watts and volts we solve for amps by dividing watts by volts.

Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse. I just want to be sure I'm not being mis-understood.

[Panther]

I fixed the slider problem by adding an extra set underneath the tray.

Its wired like the diagram above and works.

The briggs is started then you "excite" the alt with a switch. Its putting out 14 volts and I added a 2nd battery so its charging both.
Once the alt starts, it stays on even if you switch back to on"off" position. I put a volt meter from the dodge but havent got that working, tester shows 14.6 volts.

Didnt get a reading for amps yet and dont have a way to put much load on the system. I will when I fire up the cummins.

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[Panther]

Jeeper, your posts are very helpful. I dont know if its the cart before the horse but I'm trying to figure out what "watt" or size inverter will work with this. If cant get true amps until there's a load to draw from its speculation. Best case 63 amps x 14.5 volts = 913.5 watts.
That seems like a pretty small size for an inverter, say at 1000 watt. Unless I'm missing something.

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[Panther]

Just ran it, it's 31.6 amps, just charging the 2 batteries.

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[Blitz]

31.6 amps.
try upping the rpms and see if it goes up.

The calculation you are doing above, is only 'really' giving you 'charging amps' for your battery bank.

Your inverter will be sized off your battery bank and cables used to connect the inverter to the bank.

The smaller the connection to the 12 volt bank, the less amps you will be able to draw off TO the inverter.

Once you have a bank of batteries, you could run 6000 watts + off this system.

Then question then becomes...

1. How long will it take to recharge your battery bank??
2. AND how deep of a load did you pull off Your batteries???

30 or 40 amps DC charging systems, will handle most deep cycle batteries.
100 amps "charging" as we are use to is for boosting a "starting battery" an is timed to shut off after 20 seconds or so. Not for charging a bank.

When you get into 600 lb glass jar ""railroad batteries"", ... then you need a special charger that will pump 100 amps or more into the bank> at charguing voltage.


To sum it up, you can put as big of an inverter on this as Your bank and the cable size rated in amps.
1/0 2/0 3/0 or even MCM cable to the inverter.


you cannot run the inverter directly off the alternator.
Must use a bank.

Hope that helps.

I would be happy with 31 amps output for charging anything I currently own, and I have collected stuff for decades... batteries, inverters, chargers, panels, et cet er a