Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 66

Thread: Brake Shoes

  1. #41

    Default M715 Brake Shoes

    Gentlemen,

    I had my shoes religned at Brake & Clutch Supply, Inc in Seattle...

    Brake and Clutch Supply, Inc.
    2930 Sixth Avenue South
    Seattle, WA 98134

    cknutson@brakeandclutchsupply.com

    They did a great job for about $20 per shoe. Chris said you could send your shoes to him via US Postal and he will relign and send them back to you. You can contact him at the above email or: 206-622-5655

    Hope this helps. ken

  2. #42

    Default

    They do good work, thats where I had my emer brake band re lined, I have delt with these guys a lot.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Portland, Maine
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Which shoe is being run in front for those of you modifying civvy shoes? I modded a set of Napa TS320's for the front of my truck, and ran them with the long shoe in the back. I know that the manual calls for the long shoe to be up front. My old shoes that came off were setup with the long shoe in the back too.

    Also, does the trap block orientation matter depending on what shoe is in front, or should it always face forward regardless of which shoe is up front?

  4. #44

    Default

    I just wanted to add a tip to this thread that seemed to work well for me.

    I was removing the drums to do a brake job and ran into the age old stuck screw problem. After not budging them with anything I had on hand I went to Chinese Freight and bought the biggest flat blade they had. It also came with a matching Phillips.

    I then took that screwdriver and using a 10mm wrench for torque turned off the first 2 with some elbow grease. Screw #3 proved more difficult and the tip of the screwdriver broke. After grinding down about 1/4" it fit even better with greater grip on the screws and #3 still would budge. Enter a 3' piece of rigid conduit as a cheater bar on the wrench. Presto!! #3 comes off and I move on to the next wheel.

    Wheel #2 proved even more difficult. Keep in mind this truck has been sitting in a barn for 20 some years. I thought to myself, there has to be a better way!!

    After removing the wheel I figured I might as well run the lugnuts back on with my impact and see if that helps break some rust and relieve some of the tension on the screws.

    To my surprise I could almost turn the screw off with the screwdriver by itself!!!!

    Your results may vary, but this worked excellent on the next 2 just as rusty wheels.

  5. #45

    Default

    I built the jig aND did my brakes as per the post. It worked out really well. No issues!
    The parts guy will always give you problems. It's often times amusing.
    Good luck with your brakes man
    Brickfist
    67 M724 68 M715

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,380

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rambler247 View Post
    I just wanted to add a tip to this thread that seemed to work well for me.

    I was removing the drums to do a brake job and ran into the age old stuck screw problem. After not budging them with anything I had on hand I went to Chinese Freight and bought the biggest flat blade they had. It also came with a matching Phillips.

    I then took that screwdriver and using a 10mm wrench for torque turned off the first 2 with some elbow grease. Screw #3 proved more difficult and the tip of the screwdriver broke. After grinding down about 1/4" it fit even better with greater grip on the screws and #3 still would budge. Enter a 3' piece of rigid conduit as a cheater bar on the wrench. Presto!! #3 comes off and I move on to the next wheel.

    Wheel #2 proved even more difficult. Keep in mind this truck has been sitting in a barn for 20 some years. I thought to myself, there has to be a better way!!

    After removing the wheel I figured I might as well run the lugnuts back on with my impact and see if that helps break some rust and relieve some of the tension on the screws.

    To my surprise I could almost turn the screw off with the screwdriver by itself!!!!

    Your results may vary, but this worked excellent on the next 2 just as rusty wheels.
    Tthat is good thinking right there, glad you got them out and gave us a heads up too!
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Crosby , Texas
    Posts
    28

    Default

    I hate to sound like a total noob,,,but i am. What is a #60 brake shoe? Did a google search and got several different numbers back. Thank for the help.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,380

    Default

    One of the early posts in the thread identifies the part number as follows:

    The part number I used is #60 or TS60 NAPA. Then you need the return springs which are United/NAPA #81233
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Crosby , Texas
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Thank you for the help.
    Johnnie

  10. #50

    Default

    Without reading me through all the replies: the M715 series has no long and no short lining on the brake shoes, for it is a duo-servo brake. The original thickness is 1/4 inch. If you get your brake shoes relined, ask for 7 mm thickness. This will equalise the wear of the brake drums.
    33 years with a M715 and 98000 miles.
    greetings
    Wolf

Similar Threads

  1. Brake shoes for dummies
    By fng in forum Stock Tech
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: July 27th, 2014, 01:07 PM
  2. oilcan : modified modern brake shoes for stock axles
    By oilcan in forum PseudoZone - Open Archive
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: November 11th, 2009, 02:06 AM
  3. Front brake shoes wet...
    By Fastfrankie in forum Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: August 17th, 2009, 08:23 PM
  4. wheel cyl and brake shoes need
    By angler in forum Modified Tech
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: May 21st, 2007, 10:07 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


Site Upgrade, Design Modifications & Administrative Support by:
Palm River Enterprises LLC, IT Solutions
President: Tom King, User ID=teking
This site is owned and operated by:
M715 Zone, LLC
President: Jon Schmidt, User ID=brute4c


If you have any suggestions, comments, problems or questions, contact:  brute4c@m715zone.com
Use of this site means you understand and agree to our TERMS OF USE

Copyright Notice:
This web site is subject to the protection of the copyright laws of the United States and other countries. Except for Personal Use Only, you may not modify, copy, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce, publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained from any part of the M715 Zone website without the prior written permission of M715 Zone, LLC. Written permission can only be obtained by contacting brute4c@m715zone.com

Copyright 1998-2022