I am planning a CUMMINS swap into a m715 and I just wanted to know how you that have done it mounted the engine? fordcummins.com makes kits for fords and chevys, would this work? Will the cummins set into the stock mounts on the 715?
Any help needed
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I am planning a CUMMINS swap into a m715 and I just wanted to know how you that have done it mounted the engine? fordcummins.com makes kits for fords and chevys, would this work? Will the cummins set into the stock mounts on the 715?
Any help needed
Mikel has done more of them than I have and probably has better suggestions. The one I did, we started with a frame that already had the stock perches removed, so we built our own. They are pictured in the thread titled 6bt, CUCv axle...
If you have the frame, or can find a frame I would take the crossmember or mounts off the dodge truck and make them fit the M frame. As heavy as a diesel is I would think a crossmember would be good so the engine isnt trying to spread the frame rails.
I like using 1st generation mounts. Contrary to popular belief, if you locate the engine properly, a lift is not needed the hood/axle.
This is my friend's:
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/DSC05216.jpg
For the rest of the stuff, I would stick with Dodge parts. Relatively cheap and plentiful.
Since any part or kit you but to mount a Cummins in will still need modification, I would suggest starting from scratch with your own stuff and dial it in to exactly what you want/need.
I think Chris Unger has that set up. Maybe shoot him a PM.
Has anyone used a stock crossmember out of a dodge truck to put a Cummins in? If so I need details and pics if possible. Also how far back did you weld the crossmember in? Any help.
I did look into using a 1st generation crossmember, but it appeared that it would hit the axle. If you have a lot of lift that may not be a problem. But I wouldn't go by my quick measurements...Quote:
Originally Posted by jrok93003
Don't take this the wrong way, but if you are doing something as complex as a Cummins swap into your M715, then engine mounts are going to be the easier part.Quote:
Originally Posted by jrok93003
What are your plans for driveline parts like the driveshafts, transfer case, axles, electrics, exhaust, radiator, etc?
There isn't a book or list, or step-by-step explanation of how to install that Cummins into an M715. Sure, many have done it, but I'd bet every one was a little different.
I will be using stock drive train except the cummins and getrag tranny with a stub shaft going to the stock transfer. I will aslo do a 12v conversion.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyscycle
I really just was trying to get an idea of where to weld in the stock mount from a dodge. I would think to get the engine without the mech fan as close to the radiator as possible that a way i have room for a stub shaft. I have read that you can put a cummins in and clear the hood and axle if it is placed right.
Depending on what mounts (1st gen, 2nd gen, marine, Lord isolators, etc) your motor mounts will vary to the frame. The only real way to do it is put the engine on a hoist and start cutting cardboard.
There are some build that will give you a close idea but nothing that you can throw in without test fitting.
Take your time and the payoff will be so worth it. Other than SBC swaps, there are no drop in kits or how tos really.
If you have a first gen truck the front and rear crossmembers work perfect. The front is a perfect fit and the rear will mount on the outside of the frame rails. If you are using the getrag , just center the shift tower in the trans. cover hole and the front mount should be perfect. You will probably have to notch the crossmember for the steering shaft and shorten the exhaust elbow by an inch or so but it isnt that bad of a swap. I have logged around 10 or 11k on my truck since then and I love it. I even squeezed 16 mpg out of it with 4:10's and 38's.
I may have talked out of turn, mine has a spring over on it. Also your bellhousing will hit before you have and hood clearance problems.
Sorry i know this is an old thread chris did you use the cross member out of a 2 or 4wd first gen. I have a 2wd laying around but thought it might be more trouble thanbit is worth to reuse the cross member. Could you possibly post some pics of your set up too?
you don't need a x-member under the engine
This guy http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=14699 mentioned that his friend who owns a Cummins swap company was going to be selling FSJ Cummins bolt-in mounts. Might be worth following up.
I used 2nd gen dodge mounts, flipped them upside down then made new side mounts to go over to frame rails after I removed all the stock m715 mounts. also I used a center sump oil pan/pickup for more pan clearance to front diff.
I know i probably dont need the crossmember butbi figured if the cross member would fit right in why not use it. I dont really have the means to metal fab work in my garage so any major fab work will have to be done for me so i would rather make something already there work if possible
I will also look into this guy with the cummins swap company thanks for the lead
did the factory have a x-member---- no then why would you think you need one ? also why use aftermarket hi-dollar mounts when gen 2 dodge works perfect ?
I used a 1st gen dodge 4wd cross member for my Cummins swap. Just take the rivets out of the dodge, get the cross member/motor mount, and it will weld right into the frame of the jeep. I've done this twice now, because it was to close to the fire wall the first time.
Here is a pic of how good it fits in between the frame. Like it was meant to be!! Also note that I have spring over.
http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/...psynlgdmaf.jpg
I used a 4x4 crossmember like the pic above. It almost looks kinda original.
I cut the mounts of the factory xmember and grafted them to my frame. It worked great and the as free.. The best part is I can pull the oil pan without any issue.
If you are going with a vn4500 I found a place that has a bolt on piece with the goofy square hole for the firewall. Made mounting the master cylinder for the clutch easy as hell. I can dig up the info if you are interested.
Or he can use a brake master cylinder from a 1963 wagoneer as a clutch master.Quote:
Originally Posted by 68kaiser
Ah I will probably go this way then for my sbc swap instead of fab'ing the brackets from the stock linkageQuote:
Originally Posted by Mikel
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68kaiser
The first time I put the cummins in the m715 I made one of them square holes for the getrag with a whole saw and a hand file. Took a few hours to do. But I would love that info you have, just incase I go to a nv some day.
I will try to find the info. It was cheep as hell. 15-20$ I think bolted to fire wall. I almost teared up it was so easy.
Cummins diesel repowers call 406-727-8915 they sold it to me $20 with shipping.
Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by 68kaiser
Would you happen to have recorded the distance between the large motor mount bolts - center to center?Quote:
Originally Posted by jrok93003
I measured the cummins mount center to center and come up with 20 1/2 inchesQuote:
Originally Posted by Flingarrows
Thanks jrok