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Thread: Progress on my M715/M724

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default Progress on my M715/M724

    Well, it seems there are several "progress" threads around, so I figured I would start my own. Maybe some of things I learn will pop up in a search by other noobs such as myself

    What I've done so far:
    Brakes:
    - Replaced blown wheel cylinder in the back left wheel
    - Bled brakes, discovered clogged flexible brake hose on right-front, ordered new from Memphis
    - Adjusted shoes as they were dragging some while driving

    Fuel System:
    - Disassembled and cleaned fuel pump
    - Replaced filter, added new filter between tank and pump
    - Pulled carb cover and idle screw, cleaned and blew air into jets
    - Adjusted slow-idle screw

    Misc:
    - Removed auxiliary governor and in-cab tension knob
    - Fabricated accelerator cable bracket from leftover governor bracket
    - Cleaned everything inside and out, power-washed bed

    Still need to do:
    - Change all lubricants and grease chassis, steering, etc., add oil
    - Repack wheel bearings
    - Ignition tuneup (points, condenser, plugs)
    - Check/adjust timing
    - Replace valve cover gasket
    - Replace exhaust manifold gasket
    - Replace muffler and tailpipe
    - Check e-brake tension, it may be dragging a little

    I think at that point, I will have a fairly reliable and safe rig. Then, I can move on to cosmetics and accessories. I'd also like to look into lockout hubs up front, but it sounds like those might be expensive and/or hard to find.

    Any suggestions on other basic things to make things reliable and safe would be greatly appreciated. You guys have helped a lot already. I'll post some pictures soon!!!

  2. #2

    Default

    Check with a BigWheelBob on the hub lockouts. He's a long time member and sells Selectro's under $300. BWB can be found in the Members List. Send him a PM, as that's about as inexpensive as those new parts get.

    As for a safety inspection, the brakes are the most important service assessment. Anything else generally can't kill you or the folks in front of you. How are you using the truck (daily driver, around-town toy, highway traveler, farm tool, off-road toy, etc...)?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Mostly using it as a farm-tool/hunting rig, but I'd like to be able to drive around town and occasionally on the highway safely. I'm not looking for 70mph, but I would like to be able to get to 45-50mph safely.

    I got it up to about 30 on a test drive and I had this overwhelming feeling that the whole thing was going to explode. This was after I had adjusted the brakes so they weren't dragging. I guess I need to check the e-brake, but maybe this is just how these drive without having lockouts. It feels very sluggish and doesn't even coast downhill very well. Again, maybe I'm just not used to having both differentials and both sides of the transfer case turning.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Update:

    Got the entire chassis greased and all fluids changed or topped off except for the transmission (I need the square driver to get the plugs out). I feel much better about taking it on a test drive now knowing that, hopefully, nothing is going to overheat. I also added some Lucas Oil conditioner to help out the seals. We'll see.

    One curious thing, my engine has some kind of rubber tube, either a vent or maybe a fill tube, just behind the oil filter and just in front of the dipstick tube. It doesn't show in the parts manual that I can tell. Anybody have any idea what this would be for? It definitely looks like some kind of hack job:


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    If you mean that quater or larger rubber hose coming from the metal "cast to the block tube" right next to the oil filter, that is a crankcase vent and needs to be open on the top end to vent the lower end. It normaly hooks to the air cleaner housing so that any gases vented through it get sucked down the carb and burned as they may contain oil particulate.

    If you know what a draft tube is, this is the same thing only its hooked to the air cleaner.

    I am sure thats in the parts manual somewhere...I'll look for an image in a minute.

    The transmission squares on the plugs....if they are the indented ones, use a 1/2 inch drive ratchet..the square on the ratchet IS the size for those plugs...an extension works too....if there is room.

    The external squares, a crescent wrench is a good fit.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Here is a shot showing the location that rubber hose goes on the motor end...


    #9 is the metal pipe that hose connects to...#10 is a screen type filter inside it...#11 is the metal tube the dipstick goes in and you can see the oil filter mount on the block there.

    Here is a shot that shows the hose in place:



    Between the alternator and the starter, down low, you see the:
    Motor mount...go up and you see the end of the oil filter...up again and you see the hose running from the block to the air cleaner.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Thanks for taking a look. That was my guess, but I wasn't sure. The stock air-cleaner is long gone, so I'm guessing this is someone's alternative. Is there a performance issue with not having it hooked into an air cleaner? How much gas actually comes out of there, enough to stink?

    I thought the recessed plus were 1/2", but I wasn't sure. Unfortunately, I don't have a 1/2" driver at the moment. I got the square plugs out no problem and topped of the differentials and the wheel u-joints. The u-joints were pretty dry, kind of scary.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    Awesome pics, thanks!! That brings up another question. The pic shows a vent hose running from the fuel/air pump to the air cleaner. Since I don't have a stock air-cleaner, this hose isn't there, but I don't have any dangling hoses or fittings with nothing on the end, so it's apparently been bypassed. I do have a vent hose going from the brake MC straight to the pump. Is this normal, or did it go through the air cleaner before? Again, are there performance gains to be had by getting a stock air cleaner and getting this all hooked up again?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    The master cylinder and the fule pump vent line did hook to the air cleaner.

    If they are hooked together I would change something NOW! If your fuel pump iaphragm goes, the pump will b pusing fuel through that vent line...guys have had their air cleaners fill up...yours would be filling your master cylinder...I think thats obviously in need of rerouting!

    The block vents used to be vented to the atmosphere for years...then the start of emissions and it had to be captured and run through the motor to prevent that source from polluting...so it should be there to make things cleaner but it isnt a performance thing...it DOES need to be able to vent though...it cannot be plugged! It will make things a bit messier around the open end of the hose...blowby all over the side of the motor or the fender or firewall isnt really desirable...best to put it to the air cleaner in my book.

    Does yours have the carb bolting directly to the intake or is it equipped with a govenor, a small, round thing between the carb and intake with a vacuum hose hooked to it...about 2 inches tall? The 2 styles require different air cleaners and these trucks came with both types.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    399

    Default

    It has the governor....I was hoping to be able to use the carb-mounted air cleaner, rather than the big tank+tube hood-mounted deal. Does Memphis have the stock air cleaners or is there an equivalent after-market part?

    As far as the fuel/air pump, would that mean that my wiper motors would fill up with gas as well if the diaphragm went bad?

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