Okay, Whats the trick?????

[fng]

Got out in the shop today, jacked it up, pulled the two driverside wheels and tried to remove the three screws that hold on the hubs. Used Kroil and an impact driver, used the biggest screwdriver I had plus a wrench on the shaft to turn it (square shaft). And still all I get is wallered, Arkansas speak for wallowed, out slots.
Is there a special sized screw driver tip thats made just for these screws? I hope I dont have to drill them out but I wouldn't be surprised if I did. I even tried smacking them with a ball peen to loosen them up but no soap!
Any tips are, as always, greatly appreciated.

[79chevy39.5's]

if it is a standard phillips scre as i think thats wut u aresaying take a square shafted driver like you were using use vicegrips to turn/hold the driver while you hit the end with a hammer........has always helped me never failed even with wallowed out heads

[brute4c]

Many use an impact screwdriver...you hit it with a hammer and it helps loosen it up...others use a chisel in there.

Mine wouldnt move. I drilled straight through the middle with a 1/4 inch drill then drilled into the head with a 3/8ths...when I hit the bottom of the bevel at the base of the head, the head broke off and spun on the bit. After doing that to all three, I was able toremove the drum and grab the stub of the bolt sticking out the back side and turn out with a pait of vise grips.


MAKE SURE you put in new ones...its a lot cheaper thn the alternative...about $1000 cheaper....

[Doug]

Weld a nut to them (weld inside the hole in the nut)

Heat from welding will help loosen them, the nut gives you something to get ahold of.

As Brute said, make sure to install new ones!

[fng]

Are they anything special or will the nut and bolt store have them?

[stranman]

I had trouble with mine too, put some GOOD heat on it and then hit with cold water, banged out it and out it came. Put anti seize on them when I put them back in.

[boghog]

I had to do the weld-a-nut trick. Got new ones from my local hardware.
Good luck, Oh, don't pry on the drums to remove them over a piece of screw that might be left. the face of the drums can bend or distort! (Don't ask me how I know)

[ChalkOutline]

The impact screwdriver... after a spray of PB... worked great for me.

[fng]

Alright, used the drill out method on 2 out of 3 screws on each hub. I'm only doing the drivers side right now so thats 4 out of six. Thanks for the tip jon, no messing around, just drilled them out and they popped like you said.
Overall the inside condition isn't too bad. the front looks the best, like it's had a replacement sometime in the last 40 years. The back is worn down just a little more and there is about 1/16th of meat above the rivet on the top side of the shoe.
The front drum is fairly smooth but the back one is a little more grooved, nothing severe but probably could use smoothing up. One wierd thing tho is the front wheel cyl. only moves the rear facing shoe when the pedal is depressed, no front shoe movement at all. Does that mean the cyl. is bad?
And just how thick is the lining on the shoes supposed to be? Like 1/4" thick for new ones? Look at these and tell me if you think I should replace them.

Front facing shoe on left rear wheel:

Rear facing shoe on left rear wheel:

[fng]

Btt