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Thread: Siezed engine!?

  1. #1

    Default Siezed engine!?

    So there is just a small problem with the stock 230 engine in the M725 I just got, I can't turn it over. I pulled the spark plugs and poured some Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders about a week ago. Grabbing onto the fan blades I could not even budge the engine. So I put a socket and a breaker bar on the crank bolt and could not budge it. Yes, the transmission is in Neutral, lol. Going over to my 715 with the 230 in it, I can grab onto the fan blades and easily turn it over with all the spark plugs in it. I was told that the 230 in the 725 hasn't ran in a good 10-15 years, and was sitting outside during that time, but had a hood and carb with air cleaner on the intake. What could be holding me up? Somehow the pistons rusted in the cylinders or something? Any ideas of what I could pour into the cylinders to help? Next step I guess is to start tearing the engine apart or just pull it.

    So speaking of that, I didn't want to have to think about this, but does anybody have the article about the guy who rebuilt his 230? I remember it was in the FAQ section of the old Zone I think.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,731

    Default

    Pour some oil into each spark plug hole. Let it sit for a few days. Then use a prybar on the flywheel teeth. It will move if you get a big enough of one.

    You probably had a head gasket leak that rusted one of your cylinder walls up.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3

    Default

    Ditto, I used a 1" drive socket and a 3' breaker bar with the added help of a High-lift jack handle. I had to rock the crank back and forth to bust it loose. I used about two quarts of 20-50 oil.

  4. #4

    Default

    This is what I have done in the past with cars and tractors (tractors can be gotten cheap when they are "set up" by the way). Fill the cylinders with a 50 50 mix of PB blaster and trans fluid-get the vehicle on a steep incline-or ramps if you dont have a good hill around your yard-leave the vehicle in gear (yes it must be a stick vehicle) and leave it. The weight of the vehicle is "pushing" through the drivetrain to the stuck cylinders. The weight along with the goop usually frees the motor. You will find it at the bottom of the ramps or hill. And if its not obvious insure there is nothing in front of the vehicle so it has somewhere to go-use your head. Do not for any reason try to pull it with another vehicle and pop it in gear to free it-You will bend half the stuff in the motor.

  5. #5

    Default

    Of course if its seized because someone ran it with no oil the piston is likely welded to the cylinder and your not getting it unstuck without tearing it down farther. I define this as seized. Set is from sitting too long without being run-rings just bind to the cylinder wall because of moisture in the air and or water being able to get in the open valves.

  6. #6

    Default

    I could be wrong, but I don't think the engine is "siezed" to the point of damage, as I was told it ran when it was parked and the pan was full of oil. I also can't move it very easily right now since it doesn't have a front axle (which will be fixed very soon). I like the idea of applying a constant pressure over time, so I'll rig up my breaker bar to my porta power or other jack and see what happens. If that don't work, then I'll drop the bottom of the clutch housing and see about trying to turn the flywheel. Thanks for the good input so far, I'll give her another try tomorrow and see what happens.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    I'd go with the pb blaster and trans fluid method. I swear by that stuff. Soak the pistons everyday a little bit over a weeks period, it will come loose.

  8. #8

    Default

    Yeah-The advantage of the method is its just reversing the pressures the whole system is meant to take-if you get my meaning. I just hate to put pressure on parts in a manner they werent engineered to accept -Always seems to end in bent parts and busted fingers--unless no other option is available. We used this on an Allis Chalmers WD45 that had been sitting for 40 years-Owner considered it scrap metal sitting in the barn. Freed it-rebuilt the carb and tune parts and now its a working tractor-a little blowby but what the heck its a tractor-keeps the cylinders oiled lol.

  9. #9

    Default

    If you cant move it (due to your axle situation) do you have a good air compressor? Or rather a big one? I've never done this myself but my buddy heard about and used this method. Put the above fluid in the cylinders and let it soak for a week. Remove all the plugs and hook air to a cylinder-best to have a valve in the airline to "shock" the piston. Let it set. Then remove and move to another cylinder. The rig my buddy made was actually for changing out valve seals. He put a valve right before the fitting for the cylinder. He would then run his air up and pop the valve open. Again this pushes right on the piston. It also forces the PB blaster and trans fluid around the piston and rings. Hope all this helps.

  10. #10

    Thumbs up

    Would'nt the valves have to be closed for that to work 100%, of course being you can't roll the eng over to TDC per cyl, maybe you could remove cam to slam all the valves shut, then give that idea a shot. Or am I missing something.

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