I am considering swapping my M715 body on to a ‘87 J20 frame. I know the M frame is much wider so what kind of problems may I encounter with the body mounts? Thanks for any help posted. Steve Seddon
I am considering swapping my M715 body on to a ‘87 J20 frame. I know the M frame is much wider so what kind of problems may I encounter with the body mounts? Thanks for any help posted. Steve Seddon
Have you actually looked at the M715 frame compared to the J truck frame? The M version has a lot more metal. The dip for the underbed tool box is different as well. It can be done, but if you had a choice to start with, the M frame is stronger and sturdier in my opinion.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
Well, its good to hear from you. I hope all is well. Im trying to get the very same thing done at this time. I am using a 84 j-10 frame, the area where the frame gets wider appears to start sooner going to the rear on the J series. When I located and welded in the forward most bed mounts, I found that I had to drill two new holes in the pieces I just welded on. At first I thought I skrewed up royaly. Then after measuring the frame over, paying attention to the width, as well as the length, I found that they differed where the frame spreads, at the rear of the cab. I also found that I needed to drill holes for the third set of bolts, (third set starting from the front of the bed). Another note, the second set of bolt holes for the bed are threaded weld nuts, on my frame. Now the cab, if I remember, was also a little off. I made new cab mounts for my frame, due to too much rust for my taste,and drilled them after I welded them on the frame. If your cab mounts are good, then I think you will find that two new holes have to be drilled in the rear mounts, Again I cant remember, I would check this for you if I could, but I no longer have the measurements of the J series frame, and now that the new mounts are on there it is the 715 stance. I have not gotten to the front valance mounts yet. They look like they will be no problem. I wont anytime soon be checking the front. Im scheduled for back surgery soon and cant work on the truck. I hope this helped you out some. Im also glad you still have the truck.
Good Luck
Dennis
Oh your motor still starts and purrs.
One more thing. Kind of important. The wheel base on my frame was 5" longer.
On my frame, while I didnt measure the thickness of the frame, the only thing I noticed was the civy frame was minus the angle braces. For the DD this is going to be, I see this frame as a much better option for me.
I've found that the M715 frame and the J-truck frames are the same from the rear cab to the frount of the frame. I mounted a J-10 cab on my old M715, it bolted right on. I agree with Barrman, the M truck frame is alot stronger thatn the J-truck frames. You could put the J-20 axles under the M715.
Just something to think about.
Thanks for the replies, I do realize the M715 frame is much stronger and mine is in excellent shape. My truck will never go off road and is not being restored. I am building it to be a very cool tow rig for my Jeep Scrambler. The idea behind the frame swap is to get the same spring width as a standard GM axle without cutting up a nice M715 frame. The plan is just that simple. Once again, thanks for the help.
Steve Seddon
Why not just move the spring perches?? Way easier...
Because the springs sit out so far I believe with over size tires it will cause a decreased turning radius. I also like the idea of being able to use off the shelf springs.
For some reason I thought the front frame 'rails' were 32" c-c ? (I don't know why this is stuck in my head, it just is)!
Ford, Chevy and full size Jeeps had a 32 3/4" perch width. The M715 is around 36 1/4"
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