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Thread: Electrical connection question

  1. #1

    Default Electrical connection question

    Finally getting around to installing the front blackout lights I bought. Problem is, I don't have the codes to match up with the wiring harness. Can anyone tell me which codes match the codes on the blackout light pigtail? Also, is there a better way to disconnect the Packard connectors than using 2 sets of pliers and being careful? I know there's a specialty tool for this, but I don't own one.

  2. #2

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    The Black Out Drive light should be 19.
    The Black Out marker light should be 20
    Directional signal should be 460 right 461 left.
    The only thing I'm fuzzy on is the parking/marker light but I think that should be 24.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

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    Bill,
    I put a little bit of Vasoline on the rubber part of each Packard plug and it works a lot better. Dielectric grease is probably what you are supposed to use, but I hate trying to keep up with those little bitty packages that come with spark plug wires.

    The wire numbers Joe posted are right. But, are you sure the wires on your light buckets and the truck harness are labeled right and still hooked up right? I found mine didn't match up right. So, here is a low tech more time consuming way of doing it.

    The bulb holders in the light buckets are very prone to corrosion. check out each lead and bulb on the bench before you bolt it to the truck. Figure out your own way of remembering which wire is for which light.

    The bottom bulb is the black out mark or running light.

    The top left is the service/parking light

    The top right is the blinker light.

    Bolt the bucket to the truck. Make sure you have a good ground. Without a good ground, screwy things happen with these lights. Move the top lever on the 3-lever switch one notch to the left to the B/0 light position. The wire with 20 on it should be hot. Plug it into the wire you remember goes to the bottom bulb in the bucket. You should now have a working b/o light.

    Now, hold the "lock" lever up and move the top lever to the first notch to the right. This is the "service brake" position. This also powers up your blinker system. Turn on the appropriate blinker and either the 461 or 460 wire should be hot. Plug in the wire from the bucket that goes to the top right bulb. You should have a bright blinker now.

    Hold the "lock" lever up again and move the top lever all the way to the right. The head lights should now be on. Move the bottom left lever all the way down to the "park" position. You head lights should now be off, but the last wire going to your front small bucket should be hot. Plug it into the wire that goes to the top left bulb.

    That is it. Put some anti-sieze on the screws and put the cover on.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

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  4. #4

    Default

    I found sometype of dielectric grease in a spray bottle. Easy to keep track of.

  5. #5

    Default

    Tim, thank you its about time someone heard what I've been saying about ground...

  6. #6

    Default

    Versa-Chem, Permatex, NAPA and others all offer a tube up dielectric grease that's about the size of a toothpaste tube. It's better to buy in bulk and keep a tube in your tool box somewhere. It's not cheap, but well worth it.

  7. #7

    Default

    OK, got the front blackout lights up and working correctly, thanks to everyone who posted up. Even found the little tube of dielectric to make it easier if I ever have to do it again. Now I'm working on the headlights. The headlights I bought have the rubber surrounded Packard (?) connectors, but the headlights I am replacing have the "lead connector assembly" connectors, part 11 on fig. 06-19 of the Maint manual. For those folks w/o a copy on hand, it's the connectors that look like BNC audio connectors. Do I bypass these to get to the packard connectors behind the lamp housing (or bucket)? Or am I missing something? Thanks guys.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

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    The only figure 06-19 that I have is an internal shot of the alternator with only 3 parts numbered....

    I am guessing you mean that you have the rubber type connectors attached to the bulb and the metal ones on the truck.

    If that is correct, then you need a short piece of wire that has the other half of the military connector on one side and the rubber type on its other end...that is what should be there...I dont see a reference in the parts manual....
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  9. #9

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    I'm using the Memphis Equipment Supply manual, guess they're different. I have mil headlamps, which have the rubber connectors, and the headlight buckets on the truck have metal connectors, labeled lead connectors in my manual.

    Headlight bucket w/metal connectors (sorry for the lousy nighttime pic, gets dark early when you wake up at 1300):



    Headlight:


  10. #10

    Default

    The rubber connecters are the packard connectors. The metal connectors on the truck are douglas connectors. You can either cut the connectors the old light and solder them onto your new light or purchase lights with the douglas connectors. Midwest military has them for $26 each.
    http://www.midwestmil.com/m38a1p10.html

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