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Thread: Axle web cutting for spring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Farmington hills MI
    Posts
    251

    Default Axle web cutting for spring

    I'm looking for any ideas on how to best reshape an axle housing for relocating the leaf spring to the bottom of the axle from the top. Hi pinion Dana 60 from a Ford, driver side has the top of the axle set up for the leaf. For me to use this truck I will have to lower it to a height easy for me to get in and out of with my bad back.
    Ther is a wide large web that I was going to grind or cut away to make a new spring pearch. I would like to stay with this axle, I have it set up with new gears, bearings, lockouts, all new everything. This was done before my back injury. I'm also looking for ways to weld this housing with my mig welder. I sold my stick welder a while ago. I believe that when welding steel to this housing I need a high nickle content rod, my mig weldre has just one type of wire. I would guess that maybe, there is a small roll of the proper wire available for this. Anybody know, Or will I not need a special wire?
    Thanks Dennis

  2. #2

    Default

    Hmmmm

    If memory serves, the Ford 60 diff is more towards the center, and you should be able to just use a regular perch... The Chevy's of course have that PITA cast-into-the-pumpkin perch on the passenger side..

    Got any pics of the area???? You're also going to have to heat the pumpkin pretty good if you can't weld the perch on the tube.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Farmington hills MI
    Posts
    251

    Default

    Tacoma, Thanks. If I heat the pumpkin can I go ahead and weld a perch on with just my mig with standard wire and gas?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Farmington hills MI
    Posts
    251

    Default

    Oh, one more thing the springs have been moved inboard to under the frame. That is because I was going to go spring over originally. I have the Ford axles and they are not as wide as the 715 axles and I didnt want to hit the springs on full turn. Also installed longer springs for a better ride and flex. But like posted in other areas my back cant take the height of the truck like that, so I am lowering it some what.

  5. #5

    Default

    I'm not a welder, but I know that welding to that center section is a little tricky. Farm it out if you absolutely HAVE to weld to it.

    I would move those springs back outboard if I were you. How are the Ford axles narrower? The trucks are wider. You shouldn't have to mess with the pumpkin. Chevy axles fit just fine, and Ford's arent' narrower than those....

    un momento while I consult....

    Ok, Ford wheel mounting surface(WMS) is 69.25, Chevy is 69.5. The spring pad spacing is 36.5 on most, or a weird 31.5 on others. Chevy is 32".

    Sooooo given the Ford's long driver's side tube, unless you've got the weird skinny one, you should have plenty of room if you move the springs back. Tire rub is not going to be a big issue. I didn't hit my springs w/36's.

  6. #6

    Default

    I am NOT a welder, but on the site I go to, they reccomend against mig for your purpose. Check out www.weldingweb.com and look around. Its the 715zone equivilent for welding.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Farmington hills MI
    Posts
    251

    Default

    Thanks Guys. I was hoping to not have to redo the springs. My back cant take it . I will have to rethink this whole thing or put it on hold till I can get my back fixed. I will however go out and study a possible fix, or just dream.
    Thanks Again.

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