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Thread: Cylinder Head Removal

  1. #1

    Default Cylinder Head Removal

    Where can I find the special tools to remove the timing chain without having to take the timing covering off?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
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    11,520

    Default

    Dont know if you can find those anymore...I know that people take the head off without using the special tools...if I remember right...

    Put something like a stiff bar through one of the holes to support it while taking the bolts out...then you can remove the bar and get the upper gear out of the way.

    On reinstall, put the chain on the gear and pry up with the stiff bar and support while putting in the bolts.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  3. #3

    Default

    If I can't find the correct tool, I'm just going to take the cover off and go that route just to be safe.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
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    1,431

    Default

    Exactly what Jon said.

    I have found that if I put the engine at TDC, with the timing alignment pointer lined up where I want it, Then I lock down the chain to the sprocket with zip ties. About three of them around the sprocket.
    Since the gear only fits on the camshaft one way with the keyway, slide it off and support it with a coat hanger to keep it taught, bend the coat hanger to hold the sprocket "up", between the top of the timing cover and the holes in the sprocket. The idea is not allow it to go slack and fall away from the lower gear on the crank.
    There is also a "dot" mark on the upper timing gear that lines up with a brass colored link in the chain. Make sure they are lined up too as you remove and install the upper gear (sprocket).

    If you don't plan to turn the engine too much the timing chain and sprocket can just sit there while you do your headwork.

    I'm a terrible tech writer, but I hope this helps.

    One last thing of course, no matter what they tell you down at the machine shop, don't deck the head. Because there is no way to compensate for the .010 slack you will create by reducing the height of the head. It will give you timing issues that cannot be compensated for.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
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    2,299

    Default

    fng, that was all good info. I think you're a good tech writer. This will indeed help a lot of us out. Thanks.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Much better than my attempt...THANKS FNG!!

    I know that in the old days there was actually a shim for the head in .060 thickness available...seen it in the old gasket books....this was for the civvy head and I dont really know if their is one that fits the mil head or where you would find one today...never remember seeing one for sale...

    I guess the point is, there was a way, at least on the civvy head to make up for decking it...though at this point I doubt the part to do it is avaible even foe the civvy version.

    Short and sweet, as was said, dont deck the head.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Portland, Maine
    Posts
    152

    Default

    SO, what does one do to correct a warped head? I had mine decked recently, reinstalled, and it is running great. My buddy who rebuilt it for me had no concerns about the timing at all.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

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    Well, I'm certainly no engineer or much more than a shadetree mech., better let someone like Barrman explain this one. I understand it, the theory and concept but I don't know if I can explain it succinctly enough to tell someone else without using up a whole page.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    SXP,
    Did you buddy maybe put 2 head gaskets on?

    Even if he didn't I can see how it could seem to be running great. Here is an example:

    Say your head was shaved .10 to make it flat again. That means the timing chain now has 0.10 slack more than the slack already built into the just about a mile long chain on each side of the cam sprocket. So, almost 1/4 of an inch more slack total.

    With that in mind, think about the adds for new vehicles. Variable valve timing seems to be all the rage among them. Why? Because by slowing down when the vavles open and close at slow speeds, you get better performance and then advancing the valve timing at higher speeds gives you better performance there too. This of course is compared to dead on right which is the best overall valve timing setting.

    So I can see how your truck could be running better. However, what happened to the extra 1/4 inch of chain slinging around inside your front cover? That is where the trouble comes in. The chain will eat away at the aluminum cover and make the probably not working right tensioner work harder.

    Just putt putting around town for parades and down to the burger stand, no problem. Taking it for a 6 hour cross country high speed drive, possible big problem.

    This make sense?
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Portland, Maine
    Posts
    152

    Default

    It does and thanks. I thought that was what you were getting at, but wanted to confirm. That said, as long as the tensioner works, it should be good, right? We'll be working on it later this week so I'll have him take a look at it.

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