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Thread: Engine Removal- Best Method?

  1. #1

    Default Engine Removal- Best Method?

    Hello all! I had the misfortune of breaking off the oil line fitting on the back of my M715's head this weekend.( got that sickening feeling). So-- what is the best way to pull the engine? Can the engine be unbolted from the bellhousing, or transmission, and after all the necessary stuff if unbolted and removed, pulled forward, up and out? ( leaving the trans in the truck) Or is it best to bite the bullet, open the floor, and remove the trans first? Also, the stock lifting eyes are not on the engine's centerline- does the engine hang even and "level" when it is suspended by the lifting eyes?
    There are probably many threads about this subject-as I am new here, how would I find them?
    Thanks, Paul, Pa.

  2. #2

    Default Oil Line?

    Are you pulling the engine just to replace the oil line? If so, it can be done without pulling. There are many threads here about doing it. If so, I'll point you to a few links.
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    As pointed out above. Replace the line in the truck. It isn't fun but it is doable. The -20 and -34 manuals talk you though most of the engine removal process. It is best to pull engine and transmission together.

    Another tip is most single arm engine hoist don't go up high enough to clear the valence because the 230 is a very, very tall engine with a deep oil pan. Let air out of the tires and it will be ok.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  4. #4

    Default

    Hi Rboltz and Barrman- No, the 1/4 NPT 90 Degree elbow fitting broke off flush with the head. The guy I got the truck from had the hose assy. brutally tight in the fitting, and I was using a crowsfoot, and it was apparently too much torque for the brass and, it broke off. I even shortened an easyout to a "mini" 1 1/2 " length, but, the stub wouldn't come out. I didn't want to screwup a head, so, when I get the engine out, I'll remove the broken stub the right way. Wish it WAS just the hose....

  5. #5

    Default Hole Saw?

    Someone else had that problem years ago. I think they sawed a hole in the firewall from the inside but I could be wrong. Others may remember
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Yes, there have been several members with hole saw access ports on the firewall. A few have been pictured on auctions with the access port as well.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #7

    Default

    Pull the engine. It's less damaging than cutting a hole in the firewall. As Barrman said, lowering the truck makes it easier to remove the engine. Another helpful option is to remove the front clip in one piece. This give you lot's of room to work around the engine.

    And now while you got it apart, you can clean and paint the engine, clean and paint the engine compartment, then sand the fenders and paint them, and now the hood needs to be painted to match the fenders, ...

    When you are done you will have a whole new truck.

  8. #8

    Default

    if all you are doing is changing the line, you can drill a hole in the firewall to use an easy out to get it out. Pretty sure it was a field mod when they were in service.

    Duane

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Pull the cab

  10. #10

    Default

    Just a note, the bell housing doesn't come off the engine very easy there is a bolt on the inside behind the fly wheel top center .The fly wheel doesn't come off easy either ,it uses studs through the crankshaft rear flange pointing rearward & nuts instead of traditional bolts ,then my fly wheel would not come out of the bell housing, not enough space, then you need to pull oil pan & rear main housing .Knock studs forward ,then remove fly wheel, then remove bell housing .If you need a new ring gear as I did all is worth it. Also replaced my fly wheel, clutch ect.. beware ,I got two different NOS fly wheels both had the ring gear installed backwards, had to remove it ,flop it & reinstall it. The trans gear box comes off much easier . I wish I had known about this oil line failure when mine was out. It is starting to leak. I wander how hard a head removal would be ?? Some body chime in here......Boonie
    INDIANA FFL

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