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Thread: Slave plug recepticle

  1. #1

    Default Slave plug recepticle

    Thanks blitz for the M715 slide show, really enjoyed it.

    I noticed that most of the M715 trucks that I see in pictures do not have a slave plug installed in the right fender.
    Was it only used with the Artic Kit?
    My truck didn't have a slave recepticle either, but it didn't have ANY kind of heater installed.

  2. #2
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    Wow... Interesting observation.

    I never noticed that, nor have I looked before you mentioned it.

    I just assumed they all had one...
    My truck had one when I got it, installed, but it was not wired up.
    That one of the first things I did, and got the newer style NATO single pin adapter, to work with some newer accessories I already owned.

    I will always look for that now, on other trucks.

    If, and when I redo it, I will add an inline slow blow fuse of around 100 amps.

    Im gonna have to unwire "the ground" to install my heater, because i grounded it right where the 24 volt blower needs to live.
    Its just one bolt... but I hate doing things twice.

  3. #3

    Default Slave plug recepticle

    If I'm understanding you blitz. You wired your slave plug ground to the body?

    I would caution against that. While the body is grounded. The current will take the path of least resistance. The body mounting areas may not be the path of least resistance. If some other small ground wire is the current will go through that until it smokes the wire because it can't handle the current.

    I don't know how they were wired from the factory. So just giving my opinion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4

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    The service manual shows the ground cable bolted to the engine mount of the frame.

  5. #5
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    Yep,
    Thanks for that. I see exactly what you mean now.
    You are right, it needs changed.

    When I grounded the batteries, I used Two ground cables.
    One "woven" ground wire to the cylinder head, a shorter one from there to the block from the cyl head, and another 1/0 stranded to the frame "and' body directly from the battery.

    The Slave plug ground is less than a foot from this frame/body ground cable, but I see Your point.

    ( It was actually double and triple grounded that way when I got the truck, I just cleaned them all up and replaced all the lugs, and added a new woven ground and a new 24 volt interconnect cable too )

    The best way would be to fuse both sides of the cables... both POS and NEG. and with less amps... and probably go direct to the batteries.
    I can do that, I just had other plans for the slow blow Buss fuses.

    I have to take it all back apart anyway...

    I went back to Lowes tonight and got some more heater hose fittings, to put in shut off ball valves.

    I have to pull the air cleaner , the batt. trays under the hood, remove a circular knock out in the firewall, and route the heater hoses through the firewall with grommets.

    When I pull it all down again, I will make a better ground connection, connecting it on the second stranded 1/0 wire where it meets the frame, and just leave the short jumper wire to the body....and probably go ahead and put one more Negative side fuse in between the frame and battery.

    The thing about 292's is they dont get a good ground between the cylinder heads and the block, so there is "for sure" extra grounding wire in the circuit... but it can be better.

    Thanks for the heads up.

    I said earlier, I would fuse the slave plug, but I realize I already did... on the positive side only though.
    I put it inside a flex pipe to insulate it, and painted it green, so I forgot about the first fuse.

    I'll change it both ways, and downgrade the amps.

    I appreciate Ya watching my 6.


    Blitz

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepdan View Post
    The service manual shows the ground cable bolted to the engine mount of the frame.
    Thanks Jeepdan.

    We were typing at the same time, but I wanted to respond..

    As long as there is a solid , direct , path of least resistance to the ground... it should be ok.

    Whats one more fuse...?

    The DC high amp fuses are a little pricey, but I have a handfull of them in different amperages laying around for other projects on the drawing board.

    I believe in fuses BIG TIME, so I can assure You it will be overkill, and under amp. in relation to the wire size. ( the fuses will be the weak link )

    2 fire extinguishers in the truck, I never want to use them.

  7. #7
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    Jeepdan is right.

    page 368 thru 371 ( fig 20-11 and 20-13 ) of the TM 9-2320-244-34
    DIRECT SUPPORT AND GENERAL SUPPORT MAINTENANCE MANUAL
    available for download in the online maintenance manuals section, or here:

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/manuals/34acrobat.pdf

    Figure 20-13. Slave receptacle and ground cable.
    1 Slave receptacle ground cable
    2 Engine ground strap
    3 Right front engine mounting bracket

    Great manuals...

    One day I will have the paper back real ones.

  8. #8
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    All this tech talk on slave cable recepticals is making me feel alittle guilty. I have a slave receptical on my passenger side fender, but it's not wired up. Looks neat, but isn't funtional at this point.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  9. #9
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    Possible uses are:
    Jumper cable setup.
    Adding additional batteries from a bank in the bed, to run DC to AC inverters. ( 5000 watts of AC household power)

    Military hot water shower systems, which require 24 volts and the new NATO style single pole plug adapter. 4 showers at the same time or one big decon wash down pressure washer. Diesel fired for heat and 24 volts for the pumps.

    Military 24 volt food warmers, stainless steel. ( one is in the bed )

    Military 24 volt impact wrenches, once again requires the NATO single pole adapter.

    Anything military and 24 volt, such as air pumps for tires, radios ( base stations ), spotlights , CBRN filter units, heaters ( m-3) for the gpfu's, 24 volt DC submersible water pumps, and a place to hook up a 24 volt Solar charger and charge controller and a 24 volt "dump load" electric heater and 24 volt electric fans.

    Some FLIR optics are powered from the vehicle.

    I guess you could "quick connect' a 24 volt winch as well.

    If Your not gonna use any of that stuff, its probably not necessary.

    And to jump start, you need another 24 volt system to pull off of, or a bank of batteries handy.

    Its there... Just use a fuse or two.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/110-amp-Clas...item5af8dcebbd

  10. #10
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    and for the ultimate "best use" of the 24 volt slave plug... is...




    The M 134 / GAU -2B/A / MK 25 mounted above the cargo area.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO4Wd2aQSKg

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