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Thread: NP 200 output bearing preload question

  1. #1

    Default NP 200 output bearing preload question

    Due to the extensive leaks, I'm dropping the NP200 to replace the oil seals. The question I have is...do I need to reset the bearing preload if I just replace the seals?

    I an pretty mechanical but have not torn into a NP 200 in past. I am sure it is a good idea to do it if I have it out anyway. It is just a new process and I am unsure of how to do it. Any sage advice is appreciated.

    Also, I saw somewhere that adding a Lucas additive to the fluid helps in cooling/lubrication. If so, what was the product again? Thanks much.

    Rick
    14711

  2. #2

    Default

    I'm not sure if you can accurately check the bearing preload on each output bearing housing assembly, without separating them from the case.
    For my own piece of mind, I'm going to take my transfer case clear down and check all of the bearings for overheating and wear, and then reassemble with new gaskets and seals.
    From reading the service manual, the process looks pretty straight forward.
    One may have to machine a pilot shaft to use for replacing the idler gear shaft, and bearings.

    But yes, any advice from our seasoned Zone members would be greatly
    appreciated.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    No need to change the preload if you put it back the way it was.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Stevens Pointski, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,350

    Default

    If you have any play in the output shaft at all, you better take it down and see what is causing it. My NP200 had so much slop, the lube poured out onto the brake drum and band and spun it all over the underside of the truck.

    To cut a corner, I removed it and replaced it with one that had no slop and no leaks.

    I'd like to tear into the old one just to see how it all looks.

    Scott
    '67 M715 '67 M725 '69 M726 (x2)

    "it's cheap and you get all you can shove in your pie-hole" --Kozmo 12-10-13

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Given what the last few I've been into looked like, I think were it me, I'd take it all the way down and do it right. Even more so if you plan on really keeping and enjoying the truck. They aren't a complicated rebuild, but they need to be right and the peace of mind of knowing what is in there is worth it to me.

    Like I tell folks all the time: Its either now, or on the side of the road.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  6. #6

    Default

    The shims are how you set the preload then...Hopefully all will be well when I disassemble it. I have seals and gaskets. No shims though. I will refill it with Mobil-1 too for high temps.

    Any idea on weight of the T-case? I will drop it tonight hopefully.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Stevens Pointski, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,350

    Default

    About 150 to 200 my guess.

    Scott
    '67 M715 '67 M725 '69 M726 (x2)

    "it's cheap and you get all you can shove in your pie-hole" --Kozmo 12-10-13

  8. #8

    Default

    You would be right! Holy moly it's heavy! I dropped it tonight using a touchy floor jack. It is dirty to say the least!

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 44willysmb View Post
    You would be right! Holy moly it's heavy! I dropped it tonight using a touchy floor jack. It is dirty to say the least!
    I couldn't imagine doing it that way myself. I would end up smashing a hand, or worst.
    As badly as I would like seeing my cab set back on the frame, I'm waiting until I get the trasfer case done, so that I can set it in with the engine hoist.
    Last edited by jeepdan; December 11th, 2013 at 09:15 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Stevens Pointski, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,350

    Default

    This is the easy way to remove the transfer case.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Just remove your cab to get to it.

    Scott
    '67 M715 '67 M725 '69 M726 (x2)

    "it's cheap and you get all you can shove in your pie-hole" --Kozmo 12-10-13

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