New to forum and m715

[458soco]

Hey guys I have already downloaded a ton of info off this website and would like to say thank you for all of it! I did some trading for my truck and pulled it out of a field in TN a few months back. Already did the wheel cylinder conv, new brake shoes, rebuilt rearend, mounted a fuel cell, made my conversion plug wires and many more ignition parts. The trouble im having now is it still won't start. I think I have multiple problems but am unsure as the 230 is a little strange. The first problem I have is I cant spin the engine over by hand, it spins what seems to be fine with the starter though. Secondly im not so sure about the timing even though I have read through the manuals. With the zero degree mark on the timing mark the number one piston is down (number 1 is the first one from the radiator im presuming). Also with the zero degree mark lined up my intake valve on number one is open....
My thoughts were woodroof key sheared on crank and someone didnt set the physical timing up correctly (someone has been into the timing cover at one time). And maybe the bendix on the starter isnt returning is why I cant turn it over by hand.
Any thoughts and help would be GREATLY appreciated. I really need a second opionion before I start pulling the front end apart.

[e8wing]

Welcome to the Zone! I do not have a stock engine so I can not answeer your questions, but I'm sure you will get lots of help from other members.

[Don Cavey]

Hello and welcome to the M715 Zone. When I tried to start my truck (which I was told was running) it backfired but would not start.

I know the firing order is: 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4

Distributor rotation is counter clockwise when viewed from the top.

The plug wires should also be installed in the distributor cap in a counter clockwise direction following the firing order.

The number 1 plug wire should be at around the 1 o'clock position.

You should be able to set rough timing with the above information. Remove the cover off of the Ignitor (distributor). Rotate the engine with the fan if you can and when the timing mark is at Top Center around zero degrees, the rotor should point to the location of 1 o'clock if the distributor cap were in its place.

Also, if you can get someone to crank the engine, see if you are getting spark out of the coil.

Are the points good?
Are they set to about .020"?
Is the condenser good?
Do you have 24 volts to the ignitor?

With all of the above, I am assuming you have the military ignitor, not a civilian distributor. It is 24 volts.

[458soco]

I know all my ignition parts are good, all NOS from ebay and mephis, plus i checked each wire with a tester. The biggest concern is when I put it on 0 degrees on the harmonic balancer that number one piston is down and number one intake valve is open

[458soco]

[IMG]<a href="http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/458soco/media/IMG_4781_zps6158655d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r519/458soco/IMG_4781_zps6158655d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_4781_zps6158655d.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]

heres dist at "top dead center" according to the harmonic balancer. Which I know if the physical timing of the engine is off then this has no affect or compensation for that.

[458soco]

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[458soco]

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Sorry i'll get the hang of this in a min

[fishtail]

. With the zero degree mark on the timing mark the number one piston is down (number 1 is the first one from the radiator im presuming). Also with the zero degree mark lined up my intake valve on number one is open.....

Number one piston should be UP, not down. Remove the plug and stick a long dowel in there to make sure the piston is all the way up.

Scott

[fishtail]

And maybe the bendix on the starter isnt returning is why I cant turn it over by hand.
Any thoughts and help would be GREATLY appreciated. I really need a second opionion before I start pulling the front end apart.

Oh, yeah, the bendix drive won't retract until the starting of the engine 'kicks'
back the drive. The bendix drive itself shouldn't hold back the turning of the engine by hand. Make sure the trans. is out of gear.

Scott

[fishtail]

What I would do is get it all buttoned up, except remove the number one spark plug. Reconnect it to the spark plug wire. Turn on ignition. Hold the base of the plug touching the engine block and have someone try to start it. You should have a fat blue spark.

If you don't, check for primary voltage to the ignitor first. You'll have to chase that from the ignition switch. Check that the points are set correctly and that they open and close. Condensors rarely go bad, but coils are notorious for just quitting with no warning. I don't think timing is an issue right now, as at least one cylinder would try to fire even if it was way off.

If you got spark, then it should try to at least fire. Remove air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb. Pull the accelerator cable a few times and see if gas shoots into the carb throat. If it don't, you got gas troubles and that involves in-tank pickup, holes in lines, fuel pump trouble, plugged filter or carb that needs rebuilding.

There are other things as well, but these are the majors. I'd make sure the fuel side is working first. Don't skimp on it as it will come back and haunt you if you short-cut it. Ask most anybody on this forum and they'll tell you as well.

The manuals are priceless for troubleshooting. Get the repros for the garage, and this forum has online manuals as well.

Good luck.

Scott