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Thread: m715 rear brake access

  1. #1

    Default m715 rear brake access

    m715 rear brake stock with drum etc.

    --cannot access the 2 bolts for master cylinder 1/2 inch bolt and also the brake line nut. the leaf spring is in the way and creates a very narrow access point behind the backing plate. what is best way to approach this without angling or stripping those parts back there??

    (i am trying to replace wheel cylinder etc)

    --also inside of brake drum in back is corroded due to non use. can i just grind a bit on the surface? i read that brake shops will not work on these rear drums etc

    --approportionment valve...that is bolted to front frame..is there is a replacement part? same question for rear t fitting....or can i reuse if redoing the lines??

  2. #2

    Default

    2 bolts that hold wheel cylinder on- use 6 pont socket to remove them

    turning brake drum- this can be done at any "machine shop " it needs to be done on the hub so hub will have to come off also. keep hub and drum in same location its very important.

    brake line- soak it in penetrating oil.it might come off. if not just cut it and replace the line up to t-fitting on rear axle .

  3. #3

    Default

    thanks....i did use the 6 pt 1/2 inch to remove 2 bolts on fronts...my issue is that i cant get at those bolts given angle and clearance for socket. unless i use an angle connection...thats when i usually strip bolts....

    i also have another issue on the other side my screws for drum as rusted solid...tried impact, tried heat, tried penetrating fluid....no joy. but it did twist my impact screwdriver tip though....

    my next step is to start drilling possibly unless someone has better ideas....

  4. #4

    Default

    are you trying to get brake drums off of the hubs

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    When the screws are that bad, I would drill them with a 1/4 inch bit straight thriugh the middle...then drill with a 3/8th bit and when it gets to the bottom of the angled screw head it will snap off. Once the drum is off, you can remove the stub from the back of the axle flange with a vise grips...has worked for me on a few...

    You do need to mark the drums in order to INSURE that the drum goes back on the hub as it came off. BELIEVE me...I found out the very hard way why you dont want to screw that up.


    As far as getting the wheel cylinder bolts out from the back...I had the luck of being able to turn them with a wrench with a cheater pipe on it...they are in a real tight and hard to access place...if you can break torque on them, they should turn out...try soaking in penetrant several times a day for a few days and then try the wrench/cheater...hopefully you brake and rust/corrosion and then are only fighting the torque...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  6. #6

    Default

    take a punch or drift and center it on drum bolts then take a 3 lb hammer and give it some good whacks. this breaks all the rust hold on the bolts I found. don't forget to mark the drum to hub relationship before removing the drum.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    I can't remember where the thread is on here but someone reported that they ran the lug nuts back on after the wheel was removed and tightened the lug nuts down against the drum which made the screws easier to remove.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper View Post
    I can't remember where the thread is on here but someone reported that they ran the lug nuts back on after the wheel was removed and tightened the lug nuts down against the drum which made the screws easier to remove.
    Thanks for the reminder...I had forgotten this...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  9. #9

    Default

    i did manage to get both the screws for drum out and the rear cylinder bolts...

    for the screws, i did try heat, penetrating fluid and no joy....but the punch did have some effect...i did not try the lug nut method but i understand in theory why it helps to relieve that pressure between screw head and drum....

    the punch did take awhile and i also suggest to those that follow to use a ball peen hammer it doesnt have to be the sledgehammer weight type....you want to break that rust seal over many taps....

    i did also use an impact screwdriver and my first one bent the tip and started to mess up the flat groove on the screw...my replacement tip was fatter and worked better....

    so lesson---get the right tip before you mess up the screw.

    i was ready to drill if needed. was kind of glad they did finally turn.

    on the rear 2 bolts for the cylinder...hard to access. used a 1/2 inch 6 point socket with a small 1/4 inch drive. anything larger 3/8' etc will not fit.
    then use a short cheater bar to get it loose. after loosening it you need to switch to an open end wrench since the socket will wedge itself in there if you back it out too far....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by newworld View Post
    i did manage to get both the screws for drum out and the rear cylinder bolts...
    ...
    on the rear 2 bolts for the cylinder...hard to access. used a 1/2 inch 6 point socket with a small 1/4 inch drive. anything larger 3/8' etc will not fit.
    then use a short cheater bar to get it loose. after loosening it you need to switch to an open end wrench since the socket will wedge itself in there if you back it out too far....
    Yes, they are a bugger to change. I had to change both sides when I got the truck and I changed out the Chinese on the left side for NOS Lockheed Wagner. So, I feel your pain.

    Congratulations.

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