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Thread: Steering column

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Catskill New York
    Posts
    27

    Default Steering column

    The collar after the steering wheel on my truck is real loose, actually I think the directional switch is the only thing holding it up. I haven't yet taken it apart yet, but after checking out the manuals section it looks like the upper bearing (20) fits inside the shaft and then the seal (19) does the seal hold the collar in place or is there another part that's not listed? Or am I missing something altogether. Any guidence would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Mine moves fairly easy...it will pretty much hold its place unless its wheeled then it slides down to the TS switch.

    I dont know a cure off hand...other that a strategically placed bundle tie of the right color...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    It appears that they were designed to sort of friction fit on the base of the wheel on that lip back there......I just got done repairing my cracked wheel, and I added a little bit of epoxy to give the lip a bit more thickness, then sanded it down lightly. The collar now fits snugly on the wheel and rotates with it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Catskill New York
    Posts
    27

    Default

    never thouht of the friction method, thanks again.

  5. #5

    Default

    That collar is orignally pressed onto the bottom of the strg. wheel as the wheels age they crack and distort then the collar falls off. Randycycles repair is the best fix.
    68 M-715 MVPA #2710

  6. #6

    Default

    I did the same as randyscycle. It should snap into the grove at the bottom of the wheel but a bit of epoxy will make it stay there.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Mine kept sliding down too. I pulled tried the 3M weather strip method and it worked for a while. Then I pulled the wheel off and slightly bent the thing in a vise and gently tapped it onto the wheel. Much better.

    Of course, two years later I swapped out steering wheels. The replacement wheel had the rubber seal on the bottom and was stuck to the wheel so well that I didn't even try to get it apart. I just painted both parts together and bolted them on.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Catskill New York
    Posts
    27

    Default

    They're all great ideas. Has anyone tried using the steering wheel repair kit Eastwood Co. offers to fix the cracks in the wheel? Thanks again for the ideas.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by archjr View Post
    They're all great ideas. Has anyone tried using the steering wheel repair kit Eastwood Co. offers to fix the cracks in the wheel? Thanks again for the ideas.
    I didn't use the Eastwood kit, but I did use JB weld after bead blasting my wheel and cleaning it thoroughly Once the cracks were filled, I sanded it back down and painted it, and it looks pretty darn good now.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Geneva, FL
    Posts
    731
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Guys, this collar has a typical seal on the bottom that holds it up snug against the wheel. Even if the top seal is bad it will still stay up snug if the bootom one is ok. When I restored my truck I purchased a new bottom seal. Think I got it from memphis Equipment after cross referencing the stock number. The seal lokk like a larger version of the seal you see in the winch, tranny, xfercase, etc.

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