Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 68

Thread: Hummer H1 wheels recentered with M715 wheel centers?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default







    I didn't get a picture from the back because I forgot. I still have 4 more of these to build and I don't even have the first one welded yet.

    The shim material is 3/16"x1". It makes for a pretty good fit. I simply clamped the 50" long piece to the center and started rolling to center into the bar stock. I would add clamps as I went to hold everything tight.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default



    Just a quick picture from the back side before welding.

    I will still need to clean off all the old carc paint before welding.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Portlandia, Oregon USA
    Posts
    202

    Default

    I say yes to ham!
    I'm totally loving your low budget recentered wheel project. Keep the photos coming!
    Brycer
    1969 M725 ambulance

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Southern New Hampshire
    Posts
    242

    Default

    I would drill some holes in the shim stock and spot weld it to the center for some extra security


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper View Post
    I am pretty sure I want to install modified H1 wheels on my truck so I can run tubeless radials. I have purchased a set of wheels to cut the centers out of. I plan to recenter the H1 wheels with these centers.

    My first question is will my M715 centers fit the H1 wheels?

    My next question is where do I find the H1 wheels?

    I have read many old posts from several years ago. Many say the wheels are plentiful and inexpensive. I have yet to find where that is true.
    You can find h1 wheels on Craigslist, ebay, several surplus military parts suppliers, some that just sell military wheels and tires. You havnt looked very hard.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default



    I sanded the old paint off the M715 center. It looks to be made in Canada in 1973 according to the info stamped into it.



    And to check the run-out, I rigged a spare axle on my little trailer. I clamped bar stock where needed and proceeded to try and get the rim to turn true.

    What I found out is this is probably not worth all the effort it is taking, but I am learning a lot and it will be something I can talk about for a while anyway. I need to figure out an easy way to align the center in the wheel that is repeatable and doesn't take me hours per wheel.

    Also I think I should have gotten 1/4"x1" instead of 3/16"x1" steel. That would have allowed me a little more offset. (Or backspace, whatever it is called.) It seems the H1 wheels are slightly tapered inside and the new centers want to go into the rim further than I anticipated.

    Another surprise was the area where the weld was on the ring was a little proud. I knew that before I slid the center into the wheel but didn't expect that to cause the wheel to end up off center that much. I ground the weld smooth and the wheel is much closer to round now. (But not perfectly.)

    I think I am going to test a stock wheel to see how true it is for run-out so I can get an idea how close I actually need to get these.

  7. #37

    Default

    I personally want to use H1 rims and tires as stock. So yes that means axle swap. D60 DRW front axle and a DRW 14bolt out back. Surplus h1 bolt on tires and rims all over the country.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Yesterday when I was testing run-out on the wheel I had the brake drum off. The axle has been sitting outside for the last couple years and the brakes were dragging. The drum was rusty where the shoes were still in contact.

    This morning I went outside before the rain started and I put a few things away that I had missed picking up last night.

    I also put the drum back on the axle so the brake shoes were not directly exposed to the rain. Since I still had the clamps attached to the axle I thought I'd spin the drum without a wheel attached to make sure it would spin freely. What I noticed is the brake drum is not perfectly round. I didn't have the dial indicator attached but I could see with my eye that there is at least several thousandths of an inch run-out just in the brake drum.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    I spent some time this afternoon trying to get a tire off an extra stock wheel. It was time wasted.

    I found a couple threads about how to do it but I think my wheel has some sort of special adult proof glue in it (please note the sarcasm intended).

    I will try to remember to bring the wheel to work with me tomorrow. There is a tire machine there that I have access to. I'm hoping it has enough power to unseat the bead on the split ring.

    I plan to test the run-out on a stock wheel. I realize that the wheel is 50 years old but it doesn't look bent at all and once it was warmed up it didn't shake the truck last time I ran it.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    I brought a spare tire to work today and got it off the wheel with a lot of effort and a tire machine. It took three times around rotating the tire six to eight inches at a time to unseat the rusty ring from the tire. The rubber ripped off the tire in some spots instead of the ring pulling free from the rubber.

    I now have a rusty wheel that I have tested for run-out. I won't say my reading is completely accurate but I'd guess it is close enough. I didn't get a true out of round measurement because I couldn't find a place along the entire circumference that was rust free. What I did measure was wobble side to side. That was only out .020.

    I hooked an electric drill up and spun a socket on the pinion nut to turn the wheel as I watched it by eye also. It looked pretty much perfect. The wobble side to side was almost undetectable and an up/down movement that would indicate out of round was not detectable at all by eye.

    I would guess that means any wheel I assemble needs to be pretty close to perfect if I intend to run it on the road.




    Another thing I noticed was where the bead would fall in relation to the lip of the brake drum. It is almost directly above it.

    I think the inner bead of the new wheel should end up in approximately the same place. Does anyone think differently about that and if so why?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


Site Upgrade, Design Modifications & Administrative Support by:
Palm River Enterprises LLC, IT Solutions
President: Tom King, User ID=teking
This site is owned and operated by:
M715 Zone, LLC
President: Jon Schmidt, User ID=brute4c


If you have any suggestions, comments, problems or questions, contact:  brute4c@m715zone.com
Use of this site means you understand and agree to our TERMS OF USE

Copyright Notice:
This web site is subject to the protection of the copyright laws of the United States and other countries. Except for Personal Use Only, you may not modify, copy, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce, publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained from any part of the M715 Zone website without the prior written permission of M715 Zone, LLC. Written permission can only be obtained by contacting brute4c@m715zone.com

Copyright 1998-2024