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Thread: Hummer H1 wheels recentered with M715 wheel centers?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I have a set on a 101 trailer. They are painted and have tires on them. I just looked real fast. Sorry for any confusion.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Well I finally scored some H1 wheels. They came with some old Goodyear R/T II bias ply tires with lots of tread left. They should do well off road on the light trail driving I plan to use them for.

    I put them on my scale and they weigh in at ~115 pounds each. I'm guessing the run flats are still installed.

    I was hoping to put my m715 centers in them. I cut the centers out of four wheels a couple years ago and have been waiting to install them.

    I started a thread a long time ago about the centers. Wagon Wheel conversion to M715 Centers

    What I found today is the stock wheel center is too small to fill the barrel of the H1 wheel.

    I'm considering my options at this point. What I've come up with so far is I can continue with the wagon wheel conversion or I can try to fit the small centers into the H1 wheels somehow.

    It looks like about an eighth of an inch gap all around the center when I eyeball it. I found some bar stock that seems to fill the void nicely. I may be able to wrap the bar stock around the center to create a nice snug fit and weld everything together with no air gaps.

    Or I could continue with the wagon wheel conversion and start with a perfect fit to weld to.

    The wagon wheel conversion seems like a better option as a starting point but in the end it wouldn't be a double bead lock wheel.

    Of course I could buy a custom wheel already done but that just isn't in the budget.

  3. #23

    Default

    use aftermarket 1/2" thick flat plate centers with 715 center hole size and bolt pattern. set them as deep as possible on inside inset. take your time lining them up side to side and up and down. you need to use your truck with wheel removed to turn the wheel so you can check runout. sometimes it goes fast other times 8 hrs on 1 wheel. stock centers will not work on hummer rims. I have 5 - 16" x 8 inch new rims with no centers that will work on m715,s if you can build them with stock centers if this helps.
    morgan
    p/s

    you cant free hand cut out centers,accuricy no matter what isn't accurate enough.....

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    414

    Default

    I'd go with pressed or gusseted centers because they're stronger.

    Trailworthyfab has a great reputation on Pirate, and are really helpful. $65/ea:
    http://www.trailworthyfab.com/Hummer-Wheel-Centers/

    Andy told me last year that they keep flat plate centers in stock for the 715 bolt pattern.
    Quote Originally Posted by suby
    Can you do the flat H1 recenters for the m715 bolt pattern, 6 on 7.25 inches with a 5.5 inch center hole? There's a thread over on M715zone looking at how to run H1s...
    Quote Originally Posted by Dookey
    Yes sir. We keep those centers on the shelf!!
    (note that the above link does not list 715 pattern, but they DO carry them- does this mean that they also carry pressed ones for us? Dunno.)

    .
    .
    .
    .
    Another option is RogueFab, who is also a good guy. $67/ea:
    https://www.roguefab.com/product-category/h1-wheels/
    The gusseted design looks like it would almost auto-align the centers...





    And just a random thought- last fall, I lost a 37" Goodyear MT bead on the street. Those suckers are so stiff that my slow leak didn't show how low I was, and my 9" wide wagonwheels let the non-safety bead just walk right off. I've got one on a 6.5" stock Ford wheel right now, and it seems great so far. 1" narrower section (widest part of the sidewall), 1" taller (36.25" vs 35.25"), and those beads should be solid. I did have to drop the pressure 5lb to get a good contact patch.

    So, I like your wagonwheel plan, except for the width.
    I do not like the "shim it with a ham" plan. It would probably work fine, but if it doesn't....

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    414

    Default

    And check out this guy's wheel-mangling method. drill-belt-drive plasma in the barn- slick!

    http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=11129

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Subybaja View Post

    I do not like the "shim it with a ham" plan. It would probably work fine, but if it doesn't....
    I hadn't heard that saying before. I did a quick google search and came up with "Virginia Shim". Too funny. Warning NSFW.

    I will probably end up buying some centers that were made for the H1 wheel and use my M715 centers in the wagon wheels.

    I found a thread on the web about an air filled inner beadlock. That would allow the use of a standard wheel and still have a clamping effect. It's not in the budget now but down the road may be considered.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    414

    Default

    Stauns are the standard inner airlock. Not as popular as hard beadlocks- I don't know why.

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...beadlocks.html

  8. #28

    Default

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/attachmen...1&d=1451239419

    Here is another option. 1967 international centers pressed into 16.5X9.5 wagon wheels.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #29

    Default

    The H1 wheels are awesome to an extent. The 16 i ch factory wheels will not be able to be re centered on a 16.5 inch wheel without adding sheet metel. This is nearly impossible, and if done you will need a lathe. Also note that I run these wheels on my rock buggies with no problems, but getting them trued enough to run at highway speeds will be a challenge. Craigslist and military supply depots have enourmous amounts of them for sale. Re centering the, rock rings, seals, and beadlock kits will still set you back about 200 bucks a wheel at best. ThT said, they are i destructible off road. 42 inch irocks on 5 diamond trails for 4 years with no problems

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    I have finally started doing something for wheels.

    I've decided I like ham.

















    I guess I can only link 8 images per post.

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