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  #111  
Old November 19th, 2018, 07:46 AM
TXfirefighter TXfirefighter is offline
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Those 2 leaves were not in the spring pack clamps so just removing the center bolt gave access. NAPA had new bolts in stock.
I haven't done the rear yet but will probably do that in the near future.

For the crossmember, I'm going to the local scrap yard and see if they'll cut 1 out for me. Then trim it to width.
I know how far forward I can go and put reference marks on the engine to indicate height. What I'm trying to do is raise it about 2".

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  #112  
Old November 20th, 2018, 07:21 AM
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Just a couple comments ...

With a heavy engine you do have to worry about the springs. Mine have a couple leafs pulled and mine are deforming.

[IMG]DSC01849 by , on Flickr[/IMG]

The springs were ok for the first year or two but I started to notice them saggin. This is with a 7.3 so its a bit of a heavy pig but not much lighter than the v10. The rest of your drivetrain is going to be heavier than what I'm using so it will be pretty close to what mine is in the end.

I used the stock crossmenber from the donor truck, just welded a couple bits of angle so it can rest on the top of the frame. I have it bolted in from there. Makes taking the engine out and returning it very easy and uncomplicated. The engine was installed and removed many times during the course of my build and this was a really nice feature. I don't have any good pics but you can see a little of it in the pic above.

If you want I can get a couple good pics tonight after work.

Keep up the good work.

Paul
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  #113  
Old December 3rd, 2018, 07:00 AM
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yeah, I had been wondering about the weight. I imagine I'll leave them for now and see how it rides. I think the V10 weights something like 830lbs wet. I know it;s a bear to move around on the engine stand.

Actually, I just did the math. the original drive train weighted ~875lb and the new one is ~1200lbs. the stock springs might be ok with and extra 300lbs on them
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  #114  
Old December 3rd, 2018, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
Actually, I just did the math. the original drive train weighted ~875lb and the new one is ~1200lbs. the stock springs might be ok with and extra 300lbs on them
It's looks just fine with my Cummins... (engine = 1100 dry, ZF5 175lb, np205 140 lb). (1415 dry without fluids)... my guess by the time alternators, yoke brakes etc I'm 1500+ lbs of powertrain
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  #115  
Old December 3rd, 2018, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venominjected View Post
It's looks just fine with my Cummins... (engine = 1100 dry, ZF5 175lb, np205 140 lb). (1415 dry without fluids)... my guess by the time alternators, yoke brakes etc I'm 1500+ lbs of powertrain
Mine "was" fine too.
Started to warp after a couple of years and 8000
miles or so since I put the 7.3 in.
Looking at possibly rebuilding them or getting a new set.
Just saying I would consider leaving all the leafs in if
you have a heavy drivetrain ...

Paul
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  #116  
Old December 3rd, 2018, 05:45 PM
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sounds like I should keep all the springs in then.

I'm making slow and steady progress on the frame. I got most of the rust knocked off and I've started to paint the rest of it. It amazes me how solid the metal is despite being 50 years old! The prep and paint takes a lot of patience that I don't always have. But I'm hoping it will look good in the end. In between all of this, I got the V10's flywheel resurfaced and hopefully I'll put the drivetrain together this weekend for a test fit.

The amount of metal here is unreal for a "Michigan" truck. I bought it here but I feel like it spent a lot of its time in the southwest.






shiny and new!


I removed the valve cover from the 230 so I could keep it when I sell the engine. It's crazy how big its rocker arms are! It's also interesting to look at a SOHC design from the 60's.
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  #117  
Old December 4th, 2018, 07:34 AM
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Looks pretty solid! Wish mine was that clean.
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  #118  
Old December 11th, 2018, 04:06 PM
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I made a little more progress today. I finished painting what I could reach on the frame as well as the shock towers and bumper covers. I'll do the axles and springs in the summer when I can degrease them better. I should be able to get the top of the frame when I take the bed off to fix the back of the cab. I may lift the cab enough to paint the top of the frame there as well. I might as well right? I'm just worried about tweaking the cab since it doesn't have much structure.





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  #119  
Old December 11th, 2018, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
I removed the valve cover from the 230 so I could keep it when I sell the engine. It's crazy how big its rocker arms are! It's also interesting to look at a SOHC design from the 60's.
I kept the valve cover off mine and the original front bumper with the markings on it. Good wall art for the shop.

Those really are cool engines. If I could have afforded to rebuild it I would have.
The exhaust ports are HUGE!!
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