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Thread: 1967 M-715 Rewiring Advice needed

  1. #1

    Default 1967 M-715 Rewiring Advice needed

    I am looking for advice here for rewiring. I have read various threads here and other places and have gained pros and cons. I have a 1967 M-715 that is in great shape but the wiring is suspect. I acquired an old fire department brush truck that was well cared for (mostly). I am leery of the spider web of spliced wires hear and there. They converted it to 12 volt when they blew the original engine and installed a 283 SBC. I am happy with it and will keep it. The question boils down to which way to go on rewiring: a Painless wiring rewire or modify an M series loom (m35A2 or M151)?

    I wish to use the 3 way switch again with the functionality of the blackout lights. There is a keyed ignition that I will also keep. Nice that it makes it more difficult for it to be stolen. Apparently the M151 wiring may be more appropriate since the alternator wiring is on the correct (driver’s) side. But actually having fused circuits with the painless would be a peace of mind too. Thanks for your thoughtful comments.
    Last edited by 44willysmb; November 4th, 2016 at 12:34 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    I might add that the goal is to restore it to mostly military appearance and Functionality.

  3. #3

    Default

    Nice that it makes it more difficult for it to be stolen.
    Now-a-days a stock trucks is pretty hard to steal.
    24V can't be jumped easily.
    Few youths know how to shift a standard transmission.
    While the key can be hot-wired, the starter button on the floor goes mostly unnoticed.

    For all the trouble and aggravation in building a harness (time is money), Vintage wiring of Maine makes front/rear harness for the m715.

    I keep the floor starter button and put in a key operated battery cutoff switch.

  4. #4

    Default Agree

    Quote Originally Posted by kwai View Post
    Now-a-days a stock trucks is pretty hard to steal.
    24V can't be jumped easily.
    Few youths know how to shift a standard transmission.
    While the key can be hot-wired, the starter button on the floor goes mostly unnoticed.

    For all the trouble and aggravation in building a harness (time is money), Vintage wiring of Maine makes front/rear harness for the m715.

    I keep the floor starter button and put in a key operated battery cutoff switch.
    I agree with the above. If you use a harness from another "M" series truck you will spend countless hours making it conform. I have rewired two trucks and took the Vintage Wiring route. Its not cheap and will still take some thinking but lots easier then a kluged up system.
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  5. #5

    Default

    I'm no electrical guru by any means. In fact I hate it. But a grand for wiring is kind of steep. But if you consider the time to do your own...well then maybe so.

  6. #6

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    Buying the tools, wire, harness tape, packard connectors and plugs isn't cheap either. You might be able to get by with only the front harness and repair the rear harness.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kwai View Post
    Buying the tools, wire, harness tape, packard connectors and plugs isn't cheap either. You might be able to get by with only the front harness and repair the rear harness.
    ^ Best bet there if you want to maintain stock appearance and functionality. Could probably repair/replace the rear with bits left from replacing the front half.
    ... no fuses though.

    How close is the 12 volt conversion's charging circuit to the original circuit? Wondering if a stock replacement would be plug and play.

    I never priced the materials to wire mine with stock type wire and connectors, probably not cheap though. I rewired mine on the cheap just using standard 10 ga automotive wire for most of it, 12 for relay triggers and 8 for charging circuit/power to fuse boxes.
    Less than $200... not counting the 4 days of a week's vacation time I burned getting it done

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Von View Post
    I never priced the materials to wire mine with stock type wire and connectors, probably not cheap though.
    The "stock" wire is no longer made. It was called "hypelon" or something like that. It was discontinued about 5 years ago from all the electrical suppliers I deal with. I bought a few reels when I got the notice it was going. Maybe something similar replaced it but I never checked. The stock wire was black, very flexible and the insulation soft and weather resistant.

    As to the Packard connectors, not cheap and hard to find in quantity. Plus, you need the crimping tool to do it right.
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  9. #9

    Default Thread about wire

    Thread about the wire no longer made

    Hypalon Wire is Going
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    I've done several vehicles with http://www.ezwiring.com and I was very happy every time. Great quality/price.

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