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  #21  
Old May 4th, 2018, 09:38 AM
the1968jeepthing the1968jeepthing is offline
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So i think i have narrowed it down to what i want: Please correct me if i am wrong, or have an otherwise bad idea

1988-1997 Ford F350 SRW front and rear axle with rear disc brakes (i've already found a complete low mileage 1997 F350 for $600) Am i correct in thinking the front axle is drivers side differential on these?

6.0 LS with 4l80E transmission.- Ive found a low mileage 2000 chevy 2500 for $1200. I realize i will need the shift computer for the 4L80E, which is expensive. Does the 6.0 ever come with the 4L60E?

transfer case- still not sure here. Does the Transfer case on a 2000 chevy 2500 have a passenger or drivers drop? Would it be worth using? I know they make adapters for the NP205, but can i get a 205 as drivers drop? which vehicles did they come in?

Springs- factory springs, preferably spring under- what is involved with mounting the Ford D60 as a spring under? I assume i will have to grind/modify the pumpkin to provide a suitable spring perch, and re-weld the passenger spring perch?

Tires- 33 or 35 inch on factory Ford wheels (if possible)

thoughts?
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  #22  
Old May 4th, 2018, 09:49 AM
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Hello

1989 F350 axles... spring under still... 16" ford steelies on 285/75R16 (33")
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  #23  
Old May 15th, 2018, 06:09 AM
the1968jeepthing the1968jeepthing is offline
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nice looking rig! i am in the process of convincing my wife to let me buy a 97 F350 SRW truck for $500. Only 97k miles i cant think of a better or cheaper option for axles! I may consider using the engine/transmission as well but i dont think it's got overdrive.

I may be picking your brain a bit on your spring under conversion with this axle in the future.
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  #24  
Old May 15th, 2018, 06:45 AM
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Axles yes
Engine ... maybe

The 7.3 powerstroke is going to be a lot of work
I was planning on it at one point and decided on an IDI version
Mostly because of the extensive firewall mods required for a turbo and exhaust
The wiring was also a bit of a pain
The 7.3 is very wide and pretty long, I can take pics if you need them

I'm not trying to shut you down but it'll be difficult

BTW the trans on a 97 will be a E4OD if its an auto or a ZF5-47 if its a stick, both are OD

Paul
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  #25  
Old May 15th, 2018, 09:12 AM
the1968jeepthing the1968jeepthing is offline
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I am not sure yet what it has for an engine. Did all the F350s come with the 7.3? could it be a 351? I think a 7.3 would be great, but i do not require that much power and do not want to get into that much work. I would be happy with a small block and am actually leaning towards a 5.3/4l60
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  #26  
Old May 15th, 2018, 09:25 AM
the1968jeepthing the1968jeepthing is offline
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https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/ct...555017054.html

Here is the link to the donor truck in question
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  #27  
Old May 15th, 2018, 09:32 AM
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OOPS!

I thought somewhere you said it was a diesel
I was mistaken
The ad says its a gasser
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  #28  
Old May 16th, 2018, 10:51 AM
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Mine's a body-swap abortion, and I love it.

1995 F350 chassis, with 715 sheetmetal. As mentioned above, I lost the center third of the bed toolbox. Meh.

351 gas is fine for me. I don't plan to hotrod it, so i dont really care about the LS aftermarket I'm missing out on.

E4od lockup auto is good. I get 11 mpg at any speed (4.10/37s) , and can do 85mph on the highway all day.

1356 magnesium chain-drive tcase may not be the favorite for rock bouncers, but they used it in won tons for about 700 years, so it can't be that bad (as long as you do the pump fix).

High-pinion D60 front is great. I'm not racing, so balljoints are fine, and the aftermarket is huge.

10.25 rear is (debatably) as good as a 14b. US Gear makes pretty much any ratio, ARB, OX, and Detroit are all available.

If you're doing a full drivetrain swap, I really don't see the point of keeping the frame and springs. (But then, I bought someone else's project, so I could be wrong.)
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  #29  
Old May 17th, 2018, 06:08 AM
the1968jeepthing the1968jeepthing is offline
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Thanks for the info on the Ford drivetrain. I am leaning toward actually using the whole drivetrain now. It is a 351 and has a new transmission.

The frame on the donor truck is junk (rotted out) so a body swap is not an option, and at only $500 for the complete drivetrain setup I think i can save a bundle doing the drivetrain swap with this donor, although i do see your point that a body swap might be easier. Fabrication wise i think its probably 6 one way half a dozen the other (about the same amount of work either way) I've already done an entire drivetrain swap (from a 1990 1 ton dodge) and i dont remember it being too bad. I think i am up for it again.

I may be picking your brain some more when i get further into the work (which may not be for a couple years) I am interested in the t-case pump fix you are referring to...

I do not plan on bouncing this truck off rocks, so ball joints and magnesium t-case are fine with me. If they work in a 1 ton ford, they will work in what I plan to use it for!
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  #30  
Old May 18th, 2018, 02:04 AM
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Tcase fix is mentioned here:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...se-bw1356.html
Just adding a foot to the pump brace where it wears on the case.



Yeah, rotted frame makes that an easy choice!

$500?!? Good deal!
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