Its more complicated than you might think. I,ve built a few sets over 35 yrs of fooling with these trucks. 1 continuous bead and submerged arc makes the best. jmo
Its more complicated than you might think. I,ve built a few sets over 35 yrs of fooling with these trucks. 1 continuous bead and submerged arc makes the best. jmo
Thanks for the tip.
That is definitely part of my problem. I always used to be able to see well enough using the arc to light the area but now cannot see in the shadows to follow the line and see the molten metal.
I will try doing something like that and report back (with pics if it works).
I welded the wheels today. I did it outside in the daylight which made a big difference. I could see quite well. Thanks again for the tip.
The welds are not that pretty but I feel confident they will hold. The back side of the wheel was glowing red so I'm sure I got good penetration. I welded them on the tailgate of the truck which ended up being about the perfect height to work and weld comfortably.
This was the worst wheel as far as the shim is concerned. I don't know if the shim is not parallel or if the center wasn't cut square but this is what the worst one started out looking like anyway.
And here it is after welding a couple passes rotating it and welding about an inch bead at a time. I think it took about an hour per wheel to weld.
And a little zinc cold galvanizing spray after the welding and slag removal.
I will probably bring them to work with me this week so I can finish cleaning them and get them painted in a nice warm shop. It's too cold to paint them in my garage this time of year.
Waiting for the paint to dry. It's flat Rustoleum paint. Applied with a brush.
The green started out as flat white Rustoleum. It took a bit of persuasion to get the clerk at Lowes to custom tint it for me. And what he ended up with was more of a Mint Green rather than an Olive Drab. I added some black to get the green a little closer to what I was hoping.
The final color looks to have a gray tint to it but I'm going with it for now. I may end up painting my pioneer tools with it to tie it in with the Marine Corps Green that the truck will be.
I'm hoping to have some tires mounted up tomorrow. Maybe even mounted on the truck.
Here is the final product. I'm not liking the green color of the center already and may re-paint them Marine Corps Green to match the truck. Maybe the color will grow on me.
Now I may make 6 more. I need a spare for this truck and a set of 5 for the next one.
I have to be honest the wheels didn't come out perfect. I'm confident they are strong but they are not all the same offset. I need to come up with a better way to keep them consistent next time.
Nice work!
I had one flat tire when I got home from work today. It didn't even make it 24 hours. Not off to a great start but considering I'd never done anything like this before one flat out of four isn't as bad as it could have been.
I guess I will be looking for more o-rings sooner than I thought.
So I was doing some searching for new o-rings for my newly installed wheels. I've seen lots of information on other forums about them. What I learned today is many of the sources cited in those places are way overpriced.
From what I've found so far the original H1 o-rings are Buna N which is nitrile rubber. I stopped by my local Fastenal on my way home and found they sell nitrile o-rings size 457 for about $1.25 each. They didn't have any in stock so I ordered 5 of them. With shipping it will still be less than $10 or so. If they work as I expect they will I will post up the Fastenal part number. I should get them by next Monday.
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