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Thread: M715 tech wizzards needed

  1. #1

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    Got some time ago an almost rustfree M715 which was in service by the greek army after being in service for the US army (the original US numbers are overpainted with the greek numbers). Has already a SS tank and only 25k miles. After standing for years in some depot its time for him to get back into civilian life and serious off roading
    Does also have the instruction plates in greek, very funny. If anybody has some nice english ones left, im interested!

    I like to order some parts now but my job seperated me almost 2500 miles from my toy. Please can you help me with a few (correction: a lot) questions so i can order the correct parts from distance (its hard to measure shock length from this distance). Helps me to start the rebuild as soon as i come back

    Suspension:
    I got axles from a M-1008 (D60&GM14B) and a rear disc brake setup (the 3/4ton rotor/eldorado caliper thing).
    Will do a front spring over and rear f&r shackle flip.
    Does anybody know which shocks will fit this combination (compr./exp. length)?
    ---
    Brakes:
    Which brake hoses should fit these combination best (length/type)?

    Im also not sure about the rear brake hoses. Imho there are two possibilities:
    1: Run a hose from each caliper directly to the frame
    2: Have the setup like on some cars which have a short hose from the caliper to the axle to compensate the caliper movement, the rest like on a normal drum brake axle. I will redo the brake lines anyway so i can do both versions.

    Which emergency brake cables (eldorado calipers w. e brake)?

    And...sorry for this...after reading a lot of posts... im still not sure which master cylinder. I will use a late 70s Wagoneer FSJ booster. Imho i should take a master cylinder which is from a car with 4 disc brakes (corvette?). Imho a 4drum master delivers not enough volume. Sorry, i dont want to start this discussion again
    ---
    Steering: Ok, for the right side i need a steering arm (dynatrac custom .. any else?). I have a new AGR steering box and a dropped pitman arm from a unfinished FSJ project laying around. When i use this dropped pitman arm do i still need the 3" steering arm spacer?

    Does the standard M1008 D60 tie rod (knuckle-knuckle) fit this configuration?

    Anybody tried a Heim joint setup?
    ---
    Tires & Wheels: I will use the 16/38.5-16LT-6 M/T Claws (sidewall width 15.9) on 16x12 wheels. Can anybody help me with the backspacing & boltpattern of this combination (i know the original axles are wider than the M1008 D60&GM14 but thats all).

    Tom

  2. #2

    Default Thomas

    hmmmm
    i used 3/4 ton brakes in the rear... i didnt like the caddys, ive heard too many probs trying to bleed them

    i used a m1008 tierod flipped left to right. i drilled the steering stabilizer hole and tapered it and used standard GM tie rod ends. i had a custom drag link made for it.

    why a springover for 38.5 tires? they fit with no lift, you know.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcinfantry
    hmmmm
    i used 3/4 ton brakes in the rear... i didnt like the caddys, ive heard too many probs trying to bleed them

    i used a m1008 tierod flipped left to right. i drilled the steering stabilizer hole and tapered it and used standard GM tie rod ends. i had a custom drag link made for it.

    why a springover for 38.5 tires? they fit with no lift, you know.
    I have 3/4 ton discs, but i needed e-brake calipers because of local laws. So i got the caddys.

    Do the 38.5 have enough space in off road situations without SO (2 leaves out)?

    If they fit there are two ideas:
    Get bigger tires
    Or make a spring under/shackle flip in the rear. Its only theory, but maybe its then possible to mount the calipers on top.
    ...maybe i was too long in the sun today 8)

  4. #4

    Default

    the width of the 14bolt wont allow the calipers on top.

    waht motor/transfer are you using?


  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcinfantry
    the width of the 14bolt wont allow the calipers on top.

    waht motor/transfer are you using?
    was just a crazy idea. if you dont lift the jeep you do a shackle flip on the rear and to get the car down again you make a axle _over_ spring (like the factory setting on the front axle) swap. After a lot of work you maybe have the same height with the possibility to mount the calipers on top. As said before, maybe i was too long in the sun
    ...and no, i dont plan to do this

    For the engine: i have some AMC 360 laying around which i will use. My other jeeps have the same engine, so i prefer the amc over a chevy. The transmission/transfer case is a different story. I have some too weak cj transmissions laying around, some AMC TH400, Dana 20s and quadratracs. I prefer a setup with a TH400/NP205 (divorced or direct coupled to the TH400) but i was unable to find a NP205 till now. So maybe i go for the beginning with a TH400/Dana20 (have alrready a matching set with adapter from a cj project) or TH400/Quadratrac and swap later to a stronger combination.
    I have one good T18 from a J10 I6-258 here, but im not sure if it will fit the AMC V8. This was also coupled to a Dana 20.
    Btw. are headers for a FSJ V8 fitting on a M715?

    Tom

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