ForumsBasic TrainingOnline Maintenance ManualsThe M715 Zone Vin RegistryVPW's M715 Parts ListGalleriesLinks

Go Back   M715 Zone > General Tech > Stock Tech

Stock Tech Tech forums for Stock M715 series vehicles

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old February 17th, 2008, 02:04 PM
rboltz's Avatar
rboltz rboltz is offline
Sergeant

 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: York, PA
Posts: 1,712
rboltz is a Soldier
Default Electrical Connector Reference

Since I needed to restore my electrical system back to a reasonable resemblance of stock, I knew I would need MS connectors. My truck had the turn signals removed by the PO so wiring harnesses as well as connectors for the switch and flasher was needed. Also, to install the 24 volt igniter, a connector would be needed there also. Since I spent my career in the electrical and electronic industries, I knew MS connectors were available. I would see, from time to time, connectors on e-bay and other sources at double and triple the price of new ones. Because some folks did not know they were common items, they paid the prices.

So, as a reference, I offer the following connector data for the Ď715 and some other M series vehicles;

Connectors came in many configurations and are usually bought in pieces and assembled. The shell and insert most often come assembled but not always. Ordering shells by the numbers I provide will give you both components. The cable clamp and/or adapter is another component you need. There are dozens of choices for clamps. The clamps I list are general purpose but are NOT water tight meaning you can not submerge them but they will shed water. You can get water tight ones but at a substantial increase in cost. I donít know if anyone takes their truck fording but I doubt it. This data may have been posted in the past but a search did not bring this up for me. My apology if this is common knowledge.

Turn Switch Connector 97-3106A-18-8S ; Clamp 97-3057-1010-1
Flasher Connector 97-3106A-16-10S ; Clamp 97-3057-1008-1
Igniter Conector 97-3106A-12-5S ; Clamp 97-3057-1004-1
3 Lever Light Unknown

There are many sources of supply at retail and wholesale. Those listed can be found at Mouser.com, Newark.com and Alliedelec.com.

A picture of one of the wiring harnesses I assembled is below. I hope this info is useful.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old February 17th, 2008, 05:11 PM
randyscycle's Avatar
randyscycle randyscycle is offline
Staff Sergeant
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
Posts: 5,396
randyscycle is a Soldier
Default

Allied electric used to send a catalog free on request. That thing was over 1000 pages if I remember correctly. They have a lot of stuff.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old February 18th, 2008, 03:04 PM
viperman's Avatar
viperman viperman is offline
Private
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 120
viperman is a Soldier
Default Thanks.....Good Info

Good info there.......... It's good to know we can get some "standard" parts at reasonable prices
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old July 31st, 2014, 10:30 AM
m38inmaine's Avatar
m38inmaine m38inmaine is offline
Private

 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Eastern Maine
Posts: 86
m38inmaine is a Soldier
Default

Vintage Wiring of Maine has all the connectors and parts, ask for Joe.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old May 4th, 2015, 11:30 AM
rboltz's Avatar
rboltz rboltz is offline
Sergeant

 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: York, PA
Posts: 1,712
rboltz is a Soldier
Default 3 Lever Light Comnnector

Finally found the proper number for the 3 lever light switch connector;

MS-3106A-28-51S. or may be listed as 97-3106A-28-51S. The 97 series is cheaper. Clamps are many types and available also.
__________________
SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old May 4th, 2015, 01:53 PM
David Zelinski's Avatar
David Zelinski David Zelinski is offline
Private 1st Class
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Newport News, Va.
Posts: 308
David Zelinski is a Soldier
Default

For our home MS prefix Mil Spec plug builders out here reading all this:

Remember, aircraft connectors (also called "cannon plugs") require a special 3 point indexing crimp tool to connect the pins and sockets to the individual wire leads unless you are going to solder each pin. The crimp tool is EXPENSIVE!!!!!!

Also, most plug and socket items only come with the exact number of pins. I don't know why, it just is. Over crimp, bend or break a pin during insertion or during removal and you are kind of messed up.

Removal/insertion of an individual pin from the rubber shell center also requires special insertion and removal tools. This is because each individual little pin is held in place by a compression spring or O clamp. Bust 1 pin compressor and the entire plug is no good. Also insertion tools are either front or rear use depending on the plug. A front insertion/removal tool can not be used on a rear insertion/removal pin set up. 1 cheap plastic Insertion/Removal tool usually comes with a plug and pin assembly but they don't last very long and break easy if you are not gentle with them.

When inserting the pins, be careful to guide them correctly. Offset a pin in the it's rubber plug isolator hole and it will come out at the other end at a different hole area and then the rubber isolator/locator is shot and the entire plug is shot.

When cutting and trimming the wires to prep them for pin crimping, care has to be given to the length of each conductor. A conductor in the center of the plug will be a different overall length than one on the outside row or ring. If a wire is too long, it will push the pin right through the plug when you assemble the backshell... too short and it will pull out.

About those backshell clamps while we are on it... make sure you put that Devil's spawn child on the wire BEFORE you start inserting the pins in the plug isolator. If you don't you have to de-pin the entire plug. Not a fun thing. Take that bit of advise from someone who built a 192 pin and figured it out at the end of pinning. 2 days of work wiped out for nothing.

During assembly, if you insert a pin in the wrong locator hole, EVERY wire thereafter will be wrong. Identifying which wire goes in locator position capital a ("A") is an utmost requirement. Become familiar with pin locator markings... Pin #1 will always be "A" (Capital letter A) and goes to Capital Z. Then it starts at lower case 'a" to lower case "z". Once again... I'm guilty as charged. Heh heh. also remember the letters "I" and "O" are not used.

http://www.dmctools.com/default.html Daniels Manufacturing Company has a lot of information about our plugs and how to assemble and disassemble.

I have a lot of experience with cannon plugs up to and including the 292+ pin plugs (pure hellish nightmare). It was my specialty during my shipyard days and I've destroyed my fair share of them.

Hope this doesn't scare anyone away from building their own plugs but instead helps out a little.

All the best-
Dave
__________________
Even Chuck Norris drove a 715.

Last edited by David Zelinski; May 4th, 2015 at 01:58 PM. Reason: more worthless info added :-)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old May 5th, 2015, 07:17 AM
rboltz's Avatar
rboltz rboltz is offline
Sergeant

 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: York, PA
Posts: 1,712
rboltz is a Soldier
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Zelinski View Post
For our home MS prefix Mil Spec plug builders out here reading all this:

Remember, aircraft connectors (also called "cannon plugs") require a special 3 point indexing crimp tool to connect the pins and sockets to the individual wire leads unless you are going to solder each pin. The crimp tool is EXPENSIVE!!!!!!

Also, most plug and socket items only come with the exact number of pins. I don't know why, it just is. Over crimp, bend or break a pin during insertion or during removal and you are kind of messed up.

Removal/insertion of an individual pin from the rubber shell center also requires special insertion and removal tools. This is because each individual little pin is held in place by a compression spring or O clamp. Bust 1 pin compressor and the entire plug is no good. Also insertion tools are either front or rear use depending on the plug. A front insertion/removal tool can not be used on a rear insertion/removal pin set up. 1 cheap plastic Insertion/Removal tool usually comes with a plug and pin assembly but they don't last very long and break easy if you are not gentle with them.

When inserting the pins, be careful to guide them correctly. Offset a pin in the it's rubber plug isolator hole and it will come out at the other end at a different hole area and then the rubber isolator/locator is shot and the entire plug is shot.

When cutting and trimming the wires to prep them for pin crimping, care has to be given to the length of each conductor. A conductor in the center of the plug will be a different overall length than one on the outside row or ring. If a wire is too long, it will push the pin right through the plug when you assemble the backshell... too short and it will pull out.

About those backshell clamps while we are on it... make sure you put that Devil's spawn child on the wire BEFORE you start inserting the pins in the plug isolator. If you don't you have to de-pin the entire plug. Not a fun thing. Take that bit of advise from someone who built a 192 pin and figured it out at the end of pinning. 2 days of work wiped out for nothing.

During assembly, if you insert a pin in the wrong locator hole, EVERY wire thereafter will be wrong. Identifying which wire goes in locator position capital a ("A") is an utmost requirement. Become familiar with pin locator markings... Pin #1 will always be "A" (Capital letter A) and goes to Capital Z. Then it starts at lower case 'a" to lower case "z". Once again... I'm guilty as charged. Heh heh. also remember the letters "I" and "O" are not used.

http://www.dmctools.com/default.html Daniels Manufacturing Company has a lot of information about our plugs and how to assemble and disassemble.

I have a lot of experience with cannon plugs up to and including the 292+ pin plugs (pure hellish nightmare). It was my specialty during my shipyard days and I've destroyed my fair share of them.

Hope this doesn't scare anyone away from building their own plugs but instead helps out a little.

All the best-
Dave
The original equipment, from the factory, did use inserted pins. None of the truck plugs and sockets we listed and use for replacement require insert tools. I know the series you are talking about but the "replacement" 97 series on the vehicles are all solder. Yes, crimping and inserting is a skill, especially if you need to remove one. I have the tools because lots of mil-spec electronics require them.
__________________
SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cross reference list for parts? viperman Open Discussion 7 September 26th, 2011 04:30 PM
4 way or 3 way connector? whiteapeman Stock Tech 6 September 1st, 2009 04:41 PM
Three lever switch connector Loope Stock Tech 9 April 21st, 2008 06:48 PM
Parts Reference Mil. vs Civ. dhood Open Discussion 2 March 15th, 2007 08:00 PM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:33 PM.

 

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
1998 - 2018


This site is owned and operated by:
M715 Zone, LLC
President: Jon Schmidt, User ID=brute4c
If you have any suggestions, comments, problems or questions, contact:  brute4c@m715zone.com

Use of this site means you understand and agree to our TERMS OF USE

Copyright Notice:
This web site is subject to the protection of the copyright laws of the United States and other countries. Except for Personal Use Only, you may not modify, copy, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce, publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained from any part of the M715 Zone website without the prior written permission of M715 Zone, LLC.

Written permission can only be obtained by contacting
brute4c@m715zone.com

Copyright 1998-2018