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Thread: 230 Rear Main Seal Leaking

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwai View Post
    As long as it is still leaking you are good go. It's when it stops that you have a problem.
    Ha Ha! Been telling both my stepsons that for years... they still haven't caught on.



    Quote Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
    It's really no fun at all seeing that all that weight that high up and knowing how quickly it could all go wrong.
    Yikes! Loaned my cherry picker to a guy, he is putting a 12v Cummins in an old square body Chevy dually. Had the lift extended all the way out with that 12v on it, he was standing on the back of the lift... When the 12v won that battle it launched him across his yard.
    he still hasn't told me whether or not my cherry picker got bent up...

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Von View Post
    Ha Ha! Been telling both my stepsons that for years... they still haven't caught on.





    Yikes! Loaned my cherry picker to a guy, he is putting a 12v Cummins in an old square body Chevy dually. Had the lift extended all the way out with that 12v on it, he was standing on the back of the lift... When the 12v won that battle it launched him across his yard.
    he still hasn't told me whether or not my cherry picker got bent up...
    I get the leakage principle stated above, but in my experience seal leakage doesn't diminish as time goes by and like I said, I just want to take care of my clutch.

    Von, we had that cherry picker at max height, and the rear wheels were off the ground. I actually had a hand grinder in hand, ready to cut the sheet metal in front of the radiator out. It worked out, though, with a whole lotta luck.

  3. #13

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    I changed my rear main without pulling the engine rather easy, it took a half a Saturday, 2000 miles later, it always has a drop hanging from the bellhousing drain plug. If you read the m715 quirks manual it tells you to leave the bellhousing drain plug out unless fording, if not, the oil that seeps from the rear main will eventually fill up and get on the clutch. A better indicator to see how much it is really leaking is by checking the dipstick. I don't have to add any oil to my truck between oil changes, and I change my oil every year, about 1000 miles. If you are trying to achieve a no leak stock m715, good luck, its been tried by many, and am not sure if achieved by any, at least not long term.

    Duane

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Duane View Post
    I changed my rear main without pulling the engine rather easy, it took a half a Saturday, 2000 miles later, it always has a drop hanging from the bellhousing drain plug. If you read the m715 quirks manual it tells you to leave the bellhousing drain plug out unless fording, if not, the oil that seeps from the rear main will eventually fill up and get on the clutch. A better indicator to see how much it is really leaking is by checking the dipstick. I don't have to add any oil to my truck between oil changes, and I change my oil every year, about 1000 miles. If you are trying to achieve a no leak stock m715, good luck, its been tried by many, and am not sure if achieved by any, at least not long term.

    Duane
    Thanks. You can bet if I had a drain plug, it wouldn't be installed in that cover. In the course of changing the trans oil the other day, I noticed that most of the oil accumulation on the bottom of the engine seems to originate at the front crankshaft seal.

    I'm not so much looking for leak-free as I am trying to ensure a long and productive life for my clutch.

    Thank you again for the info.

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