Just bought a M715

[Mikel]

A lot of people feel that when the fuel runs low, it sucks up the trash in the tank. But the pickup is always in the same place! If there is trash in the tank, it will suck it up full or empty.

I think that applies when the debris floats

[farmer]

Got the other 2 trucks picked up today and brought up to my fathers. Got looking and the tank in the parts truck is galvanized so hopefully that's a better unit. Going to clean ithe out with mineral spirits and give that a go.

Does the fuel sender need to be changed from the 12v truck into what I assume is a 24v tank so that the guage works?

[fishtail]

If it is the original gauge you will have to. Otherwise it will only read half of what you have. (Or not work at all)

Make sure your grounds are good for the gauges to work.

Scott

[farmer]

Truck is 12v not sure about the tank sender, unsure of its origin.

Digging around in my parts I've found the correct early air cleaner assembly for the truck, but it's missing the clamp to secure it to the carb. Anyone find something suitable to use to mount it?

[Don Cavey]

A lot of people feel that when the fuel runs low, it sucks up the trash in the tank. But the pickup is always in the same place! If there is trash in the tank, it will suck it up full or empty. If you have an original tank, there is a very good chance that there is a lot of rust in the tank. It just comes with the turf (unfortunately). Easy for me to say when I am not spending the money. But I never looked back with a new tank. I am sure the new stainless tank will be around longer than me.

I think that applies when the debris floats

I think you are right. But most stuff that is causing problems (rust) doesn't float

[farmer]

So I've decided to put the ol truck up for sale, will be posting in the classified section as well. Pics on first page

Got the turn signals working with an aftermarket column switch
rebuilt the carb
new plugs and wires
full fisher plow setup with blade
troop carrier sides
decent 9.00-16s, nice 38-13-16 swamper could go with for extra
run decent, has a off-idle stumble unless you ease into the throttle.
includes brand new gas tank and 2 big boxes of parts

needs a top, canvas is torn, old one included
seats are in tough shape
its crusty


Asking $2200

[farmer]

Nothing in life is certain, I changed my mind about the truck. Its staying

Ordered a new top for it, going to get it prepped for winter.

Bought a cheap turbo muffler, will take pics of the current glasspack the PO put on. Used a cheap rolled edge exhaust tip as an adapter and just slid it over the old pipe.. Some peoples kids...

In a few weeks I'm supposed to get a running chevy 8.1 from a GMC school bus, along with anything else in the bus I want. So computer and auto trans is coming out with it. Might use it to replace the 230, might not, fuel infection would be nice. Will see once I have all the cards in hand.
Thinking I might use one of the seats to replace the destroyed passenger seat, would be a mini bench like the M35 seat.

Also heard 90s Ford Dana 60 front axle is a direct swap in? Girlfriends father has a pair I might be able to get cheap. EDIT: dumb ass, forgot these are passenger side drop.

[farmer]

Got more accomplished with the truck this weekend. Found a fist sized rust hole in the top of the gas tank, no wonder I had fuel issues. Blew the lines clear and threw on a new fuel filter, runs a little better.

Started looking for vacuum leaks, found that the vacuum advance in the civvy distributor was frozen, and I assume that tore the diaphragm because it leaked vacuum badly. Plugged off the line, truck runs strong and will idle, just falls on its face on hills.

So now I'm on the hunt for parts to rebuild the vacuum advance.

[farmer]

Looking like the civvy distributor parts are none existent, and I need a diaphragm for the vacuum advance to work.

Does anyone know if the vacuum canister is the same as another model? Would really like to get this fixed as the truck is an absolute dog on any incline in 4th

[farmer]

After coming back to the truck in the spring I tried reviving the 230 again, determining #6 was dead, no compression.

I wound up with the Chevy 8.1, I traded the Allison to have the engine harness converted to standalone and reflashed the ECU to rev higher and remove torque management. Been sitting on that since winter.

I had made a list of things needed for the 8.1 swap and wound up with a $1000 parts list to make it all work. When I get done I'd have a simple old truck with a complicated engine, blasphemous to some, and honestly I don't have the $1000 to drop on it right at the moment. I'd like to have it running for the summer.

One of my buddies has a 454 from a 70s truck that's been sitting in storage for some time, complete from oil pan to air cleaner, fan to bell housing. Starters there, accessories are all there (not that I'll need the power steering but I'll have it for the future, along with a complete hydroboost unit all still attached.

Trading him straight up, the 8.1 for the 454, and he and his old man both said take whatever you need, there's a ton of chevy parts out there. I picked up a 2wd SM465 this winter to mate to the stock NP200 transfer case.

Picking up the engine this weekend and getting it cleaned up and ready, figure out what else I'll need for the swap.

Plan for now is going to use the factory intermediate shaft, mate to the trans, mod the trans mount to fit, then use a variation of the "spicer plates" that keeps the chevy motor mount and bolts to the factory frame horns. Going to order the CJ Chevy swap radiator, Omix-Ada has one for $190, but I found "CR Concepts" 3 row aluminum CJ swap radiator for $135, anyone have experience with them?

I'll grab some pictures this weekend and get this all updated