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Thread: clutch replacement section in manual

  1. #1

    Default clutch replacement section in manual

    I am in the process of changing the clutch (actually the flywheel bolts are loose and I am doing the clutch at the same time) I was looking for the manual in the zones library and cannot find the section. Do we have that in there? I found how to adjust the clutch, but connot find a repair manual.

    Duane

    1967 M715 Fire dept Brush truck.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Download the -34 manual at the link below and look at:

    Chapter 2 Section 4
    or
    Chapter 11


    The job basically comes down to:

    Remove the front and rear drive shaft.
    Loosen the u bolts on the center shaft and loosen the tcase mounts and slide the tcase back a little to get the center shaft out.
    Remove the linkage for the tcase and ebrake from the side of the trans and remove the trans...you may want to take a picture or 2 of all the linkage and bolts and spacer locations for later...
    Remove the cross shaft and throwout bearing.
    Unbolt and remove the pressure plate and clutch plate.


    It is alot of work...without both the -20 and -34 manuals, you wont have everything.


    Heres the link, right click and "save as":

    http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/manuals/34acrobat.pdf

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    West-central Ohio
    Posts
    689

    Default

    It's a lot of work to pull it apart from the back end - I can't help but think it'd be faster to pull the entilre powerpack and break it apart on the floor (that would give you good opportunity to replace the oil line on the back of the engine, too).
    "other peoples junk, is something or other" - Militarypotts 02/07/2011

  4. #4

    Default Estimated Time

    How long has it taken you guys to change the clutch? I have a lift available but can only tie it up for 8 -10 hours. I also have help. I was considering doing it as mine is chattering as I think it has oil on it due to the rear main seal leaking. I would do the rear main and engine mounts at the same time. Maybe it would be quicker to remove the hood and pull the pack?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Two things to keep in mind. You will be only 4 or 5 bolts from having the t-case all the way off. Might as well buy seals for it and replace them while you put it on the ground. It is easier in my opinion than trying to work around it and its cross member doing the clutch.

    The other is the 230 itself. It is a very tall engine. Use the shortest chain you can to hook up to the engine and even then. You will probably have to let air out of the front tires to get it to clear the radiator support metal.

    Either way you go, there are other things that are then easy to take care off.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Great point on the seals...I did change all of mine when I did the clutch job...it was worth it!!

    Pulling the engine and trans as a unit is great idea too...if one needs to do the pilot bushing, it is much easier AND lining up the new pressure plate and clutch splines is 10 times easier...if you need to have the flywhel faced, pulling the motor and trans is the only way to do it without going crazy.

  7. #7

    Default

    I have an hour and a half into the job, and all I have left is the transfer case linkage on the side if the trans, and slide the transfer case back, hopefully will have it out in another hour. will look at the manual and try to finish the removal tonight.

    will let you know how it turns out....

    Duane

  8. #8

    Default

    Has anyone had the flywheel bolts loosen up? I hope one isnt broken, it looks as if you have to put the flywheel bolts in before you install the crank like my 63 cj5, I am hoping this isnt the case.

    Duane

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    The flywheel bolts DO need to go in before the crank.

    You can remove the flywheel from them by taking the nuts off of them, sliding it back what you can, remove the external bellhousing bolts, take a wrench and get behind the flywheel inside the bellhousing and remove the last 2 bolts from there...a real pain in the butt.

  10. #10

    Default

    the nuts loosened up, so I need to replace the nuts and add star washers, need to change the ring gear on the flywheel, anyone have one? will ask in the wanted section also

    Duane

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