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Thread: Floor rust

  1. #1

    Default Floor rust

    Hello,
    Just recieved my new m715 today,
    emaculate condition, except while I'm cleaning it out, I find a piece of foam with OD backing, cut to fit, and hiding my trucks cancer. It's only behind the drivers seat and a few spots an inch or two up the cab wall.
    Anyone have any idea what the average cost or repair is, and what the methods of repair are?
    I don't weld so thats not a option.

    Thanks everyone.

  2. #2

    Default

    I meant welding is not a DIY option for myself.

    Thanks

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,526

    Default

    Cutting out the old and welding in new is really the only good method. If a patch is riveted or glued in somehow, it will get rust at the joint where the 2 pieces join and rust out again.

    Cost...depends on how bad it is, how much has to be done to fix it, how well you want it done and what materials are used...plus the labor rate of the person doing it...dont forget paint and all the prep for that after the metal is replaced.

    It isnt possible to say how much it will cost without more info...sorry.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    New Jersey by Philadelphia
    Posts
    282

    Default

    You could always wire wheel it/sandblast the affected area. Then spray it with a good paint like Rustoleum primer. Let it sit for a while for the paint to cure - maybe a week, especially in the colder weather. Then make up a batch of Bondo brand fiberglass resin and some tiger hair/fiber mesh and apply it over the previously rusty area. Once cured, then skim coat with body filler/sand lightly and prime and paint od.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    Body work at it's finest.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks guys, I appreciate the timley responses. I will get some pics together and repost.

  7. #7

    Default

    You could also use panel bonding adhesive if you cant weld--get rid of all the rust first-if you use longer set time adhesive it is supposed to have strength greater than a weld. I've seen it used with good result-not done so myself

    http://www.3m.com/product/informatio...-Adhesive.html


    My cousin used this stuff on his ford truck floor

    http://www.nortonautomotive.com/Medi...uto%20Line.pdf

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Tacoma, Washington
    Posts
    105

    Default Body Solder

    Another consideration to use is sand rusted area, install a metal patch with rivets, then body solder the patch to seal it. Stick solder available from Eastwood at eastwood.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    central central wisconsin
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Before I learned to weld or even had a welder this is what I had done to many cars and it worked great.

    I cut out the rusted area and cleaned up the edges. I then made a patch pannel out of sides of stoves or washing machines since they have some great enamel on them already but you could also just use regular steel.

    Make the patch pannel overlap about one inch on all sides. then use self taping screws to anchor the panel down to the floor. Now take it all off again and use roofing sealant to "paint" around the hole. now put the panel back down and put all the screws back in the holes you already made.

    Now "paint" the top of the panel and the underside of the panel from under the truck with sealant. I put down tar paper over the top of the sealant and then reinstalled the carpet on the cars that I did this to. The tar paper doesnt allow the roofing sealant to stick to the carpet.

    The roofing sealant will eventually dry and will dry quicker than roofing tar does. The cool thing about doing it this way, especially if you have to do the entire floor like I had to do in my 67 Mustang and my 84 Cherokee, is the sound deadening properties of the roofing sealant and tar paper.

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