Lockers

[fisherman]

Here is my dilema. I have a 23 spline power lock for the dana 70, but I need to buy a set of clutches. I still don't have anything for the front dana 60, Al might have a power lock that will work for the front but I don't know yet. I've heard power locks are difficult to install and it involves re setup of the gears. Something I don't want to try on my truck. For those of you running the detroit lockers, are they straight forward to install? I've never owned anything with a detroit in the rear, what should I expect? Since the power locks are difficult to set up and I would have to pay for that, I am tempted to buy a detroit for the rear and install it myself. I've heard that they are pretty easy to install? Correct me if I'm wrong. Is there something similiar to a detroit for the stock dana 60 that would be an easy install, and no gear set up? I am about ready to get this done. Any information as always appreciated.

[moosejr]

I have a detroit in the back of my 5/4. It works well, but is sometimes a little uncivilized on wet pavement (too much throttle and it will spin both tires, sliding you sideways, . .this is WAY worse in snow) Awesome traction otherwise. It was in the truck when I bought it, so I don't know about installing. As far as the power lock; They are very strong, but you do have to set up the gears, which can be a chore with the axle in the truck, as you will need a bearing press, a dial indicator, a floor jack, some good muscle, a little luck, . and a lot of vocabulary not suitable for sunday school . . lol.
I don't know that I would want a locker in the front, particularly if you deal with snow, as they tend to "crab" the truck sideways, in addition to making it harder to steer. Being that I subscribe to the KISS principle, I like the combination of locker in the rear and power lock in the front; gives you a real solid locker in the back, with some "give" in the front while still getting a lot more than an open diff.. . .

[Jed]

Fisherman, I have a Detroit locker in my truck and I've been very happy with it. Installation was simple, really nothing to it. I can explain in detail if you'd like. The truck turns corners fine and sliding on snow covered roads has not been a problem (yet) either. I can feel the truck pull a little when I let off the gas after a hard throttle. No big deal. The off-road improvement is what I notice the most.

[Doug]

The detroit "lunch box" locker for the rear is about as stupid simple of an install as you can get. There is also a Lock Right "lunch box" for the front that installs similar to the detroit, slightly more time comsuming than the rear simply because pulling the axle shafts takes longer...but the actual locker install is a breeze.

Tools and shop ready, you should be able to do the rear in 3 hours or less, no longer than 4 hours for the front including including a couple potty breaks.

If you want more detail of the installs, just ask.

Snow on pavement could be a serious issue, off road, they rock.

[fisherman]

I've heard the Detroit for the rear can be around $450.00, I wonder how much for the lock right locker for the front? If it is under $1,000.00 buying those would still be cheaper than paying for someone to install the powerlocks. Then I could install them myself when time allows. Doug the lunch box locker you refer to for the rear, is that just a full on Detroit locker that everyone refers too? If you could be a little more specific on the install, or maybe I'll just search a little. As far as handling characteristics I guess I could leave one front hub unlocked if driving on slick roads. Or just chain up.

[Doug]

Todd, the "Full" Detroit is a complete carrier and would require setting up the gears. A "Lunch Box" type installs inside your existing carrier in place of the spider gears, that's what you want.

The front I have is also a Lunch Box type, and is way under $1000. I bought mine used and haven't checked prices for quite a while, but guessing it's around $400-$450.

I'd run the chains before I'd run with one hub unlocked.


Rear install:
Chock the tires and put the t-case in neutral, no jacks are required.

Remove nuts on the axle flanges, smack center of axle flange hard with a two pound hammer until all 8 cone washers(per side) are free. Remove axle shaft...actually, you only need to slide it out 6" or so.

Remove diff cover and catch fluid in drain pan. Carrier is held in by two bearing caps, each has two bolts. Remove those bolts and pop the bearing caps loose...might use a wood block and a hammer if they don't come off by simply pulling on them. Make a note for re-installtion of which cap was on which side and which way was up.

The carrier is now ready to come out. It would be a good idea to set up a safety net of some sort to catch it as it is heavy and you'll be doing a juggling trick or some sorts to get it out. Laying a few layers of cardboard on the ground where it might fall isn't a bad idea. The carrier case is a two piece unit, you'll be able to see the bolts that hold the two halves together, hook one of the bolt heads with a small pry bar and use the diff case to pry against, not much pressure is needed to get it our so go easy, slowly rotate the drive shaft yoke with your free hand (yes, I realize you don't really have a "free" hand right now). Rotating the drive shaft yoke sort of unscrews the pinion from the ring gear and greatly facilitates the extraction. As soon as the baby's head starts to crown, oh shat, wrong directions, anyway, at some point, you'll know the carrier is free and ready to roll out in your hands, be ready as it's heavy!

With the carrier out and on your bench, you can separate the case halves by removing the bolts. Then remove the spider gears and follow the directions included with the locker, we also have them scanned on the zone for late night reading. I just quickly went over them and found one thing I missed...marking the case halves so that they get mated back together in the original position. Anyway, here they are.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=locker_manual

Assembly is pretty much the reverse of removal, IIRC case halve bolts torque is 55lbs. Carrier bearing is list as 85 in some books on up to 115lbs in others. My bolts stretched at slightly over 100lbs and I ended up replacing them to restore my confidence, if you're reusing the original bolts I wouldn't torque them over 95lbs.


Front install is very similar, but you do have to remove the front tires to get the front axle shafts slid out, so you will need jack stands. Axle shaft removal on the front is also more time consuming due to removing the brake drums, hubs and such.

It's been a few years, so forgive me if I omitted some details...but all in all, that is all it takes. Of course, don't forget to check the inside of the diff and carrier for dirt and debris, clean as required, refill with new fluid when done. Good to have a new diff cover gasket on hand also.

[fisherman]

Thank You Doug, How durable are these lunch box type lockers? I'm trying to decide if I want to spend the 8 hundred or so and put them in myself or pay someone else close to the same or more to install power locks. What would you suggest?

[Binford]

What happened to Phil? Doesn't he do rear-ends?

[fisherman]

Phil helps out with engine and pretty much everything else. He does not set up rear ends, or rebuilt transmissions. He has friends that do that. I just finished up a conversation with a fellow, he will install for me for $250.00 front and rear. I just need to come up with the parts. I'm working on it. I think that is reasonable as he did a fine job for me rebuilding my transfer case. It is very quiet. Now I just need to talk with Al and see if he still has a powerlock for rent?

[airborne]

Any feedback on the 'Truetrac' for the front, and a 'E-Z' locker in the rear? Yes, no, maybe?