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Thread: Angry_Truck rebuild update

  1. #31

    Default 1 step forward 2 back

    So among a bunch of other things, I worked on the brakes.

    I used the W37263 wheel cylinders mentioned in other threads and ground out the "Mickey Mouse Ears" a bit to allow them to fit. For reference, here is a comparison with the W37263 on the left and the original on the right. You can see the difference in the distance between the edge of the ruler and the mounting holes.


    The front brakes were cleaned up without much issue. For reference, my shoes were different lengths. The front half of the axle measured about 13 inches, the rear half of the axle about 14.
    Front:


    Rear:


    If you are looking for the rubber plugs for the star wheel adjuster, I found these and they fit well:


    I even managed to get the arrow going the right way on the upper block thingy:


    The fronts are all set:


    As for the rears....

  2. #32

    Default The rear hub horror show

    The rears were/are a mess. I pulled the left rear drum off and found this horror show:


    Some type of grease/crap slathered all over the shoes. No idea on the source, but the only thing I could think of was the hub seal, so I dug deeper and found the additional horror in the hub:


    Don't know how this happens to a bearing but it happened to mine:
    (notice the nice dent at the 5 o'clock position)


    Here is the inner seal, the spring is broken. Hard to tell if it happened during the removal or not but both the driver and passenger side seals were broken.


    Needless to say, the cups and bearings are shot:



    Waiting for parts...

  3. #33

    Default Rebuilding rear hubs/brakes

    So the rear axle was a rusty mess. Based on the hub bearings, I assumed the diff carrier bearings were also fubar. To check those and to de-sludge the axle tubes, I had to pull the diff. I wasn't really looking forward to that since I thought special tools were required but I was able to pull it with a pry bar and a ratchet strap - it was much easier than I imagined. Thankfully, the diff bearings were in good shape - no rust contamination.



    So with that stuff out, I started swabbing, scraping, washing, blasting all kinds of gunk out of the tubes. Here is a sample:



    I eventually got it into pretty good shape. I'm not saying I would eat off it but I felt much better after getting it cleaned out.

    New hub bearings, cups, and seals were installed. I found all of the part numbers here on the Zone and sourced the seals and outer bearing from the internets. The inner bearing and races came from Torqueking.
    It was during this process that I might have uncovered why the rear hubs were in such bad shape. First, the seals on my truck were different than the National 416282 recommended here on the Zone. These new National seals were dual-sided. The seals on my truck were 1-sided, unless 1 of the sides had rotted and contributed to the rust sludge. Second, I think one of the large nuts was not applied. There was only 1 on my truck, but the part manual shows 2 (highlighted in yellow below). It took me a while to sort that out. So I think someone at some point got in there and made a mess of things.



    I also rebuilt the rear brakes at the same time. As I mentioned previously, the rear shoes were shot due to some type of grease contamination. I broke down and bought new ones from Memphis. They only offer 1 size (about 14 inchs long):


    New shoes, wheel cylinders and paint. The rear brakes/hubs are now the prettiest part of the truck.

  4. #34

    Default

    Your truck looks great. Very clean and in super shape. I think you have the brake shoes on the wrong sides. The shorter lining primary shoe should be on the front side and the longer lining secondary shoe on the back side. If that is the drivers rear. Anyway, it looks really good.

  5. #35

    Default

    Kaiserjeeps -
    Thanks for the compliments, and thanks for looking at the brakes closely. You made me do a double-check. Memphis only sells one shoe size (the longer 14"), so I used the same size for both the primary and secondary shoe on the rear axle.
    I didn't need new shoes for the front axle, and those had a short primary (about 13") and a long secondary.

  6. #36

    Default

    I could not tell if that was a front or back brake. Strange Memphis does not have the right primary shoe. I wonder if a guy were to build his own if it would be worth the trouble. There is a place called Aircraft Spruce that sells brake shoe rivets and rivet tools for guys that want to redo their brakes on their planes. I bought this tool here
    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ickkey=4405910 for setting rivets on the glass run channels on a full size jeep door rebuilds. I ended up getting smaller rivets from these guys. An amazing store.
    https://rivetsinstock.com/
    The tool made perfect crimps. I'd hope so being an airplane brake tool.
    I suppose it would be good to keep your old shoes just in case. Your truck is pretty darn nice. I always enjoy looking at clean work like that. A good motivator for others. Thanks for clarifying. Looking forward to more.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Geneva, FL
    Posts
    731
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Yeah I've got one of those tools. It can be used to rivet data plates well.

  8. #38

    Default P.T...doh!

    I was waiting for some other parts to arrive, so I figured I would take a look at the old, grimey PTO shaft. I was worried some of the pins/keys weren't right, and based on the state of the winch, I suspect it had seen some trauma in its life. During the removal, the stud that holds both the oil pan and the small PTO support bracket fell to the ground. Turns out it had broken, and, true-to-form, left a portion of the stud buried up in the engine block.


    It is the hole to the right in this photo:


    Little tiny piece of broken bolt buried up in the block:


    Turns out some other folks here on the Zone had the same problem.

    I have broken a lot of bolts in unfortunate places in my life, so I wasn't looking forward to lying on my back, crap falling down in my face and trying to drill this thing out of the very important engine block. I don't know what type of charma I cashed in but I managed to drill that thing out easily, without tearing up the threads in the block.

    The original stud didn't seem like a good idea in the first place, and I'm sure it is about impossible to find a replacement anyway, so I ground down a nut to use as a spacer, then a normal bolt.
    The original stud:
    (if you look closely, you can see the broken end portion. The rest of it was up in the block)

    In the background you can see my normal bolt and nut/spacer thing.



    The bracket went back together nicely and I was able to get a good torque of the little support bracket where it bolts into the oilpan/block.

    Back to the PTO shaft.

    With it out, it took a lot of scrubbing but I finally got it cleaned up. At that point I was able to look into the grub screw hole of the rear U-joint and see what appeared to be a wiped key. Maybe the U-joint broke or wiped the key and spun until it hit the grub screw. I didn't like that, so I got the bright idea to try and remove the U-joint and inspect the keyway. That U-joint yoke did not want to come off. Heat/beat no luck. So then I got the better idea to just dis-assemble the U-joint so that I could get better access to the end of the shaft to press/smash the yoke off the shaft.
    Well after a while of swearing, pounding and pressing, I managed to completely mangle the yoke and joint:

    Turns out I am a dumba$$ (no suprise), and I had not removed the copper (?) C-clips on the inside of the U-joint. I found those partway through this exercise. At one point, I had so much pressure on the joint that the end of the U-joint cup exploded off the end joint - that should have indicated I was doing something wrong. But did that stop me? No way. Let's try the other side of the joint. Smash, smash...another fubar joint. At this point, I admitted defeat and took it to a local driveshaft shop. They were able to fit a new joint (apparently that is the one thing on this truck that isn't somehow unique). They never did say if the key was wiped but they did admit "the guy had to really beat on it a while to get the yoke off". So if a pro said it was tough, then I don't feel so bad (I guess).
    Nice new joint (but it doesn't have the cool "made in the USA" caps like the original had):


    All cleaned up and ready to go back on the truck:


    Now where did that U-jont that connects to the winch go....?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    You have some fantastic tech in this thread...wow...keep up the great work and posts!!!
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  10. #40

    Default

    More random mini-projects and parts:

    Shocks:
    I decided to go with Monroe Magnum 66902 on all 4 corners. These were mentioned in another thread, so I will give them a try. I wanted something that looked similar to the originals, and these were similar in length. They body isn't as big in diameter as the originals but they end up looking Ok on the truck. If I ever get this thing running, maybe I will say something about how they ride.


    Here is the 66902 next to the stock front. The original isn't fully extended in this photo, so they look pretty unmatched, but the 66902 bolted right up.


    Here you can see the body diameter of he 66902 is a little smaller than the original.


    Here they are installed.



    I also went ahead and replaced my battery/starter cables. I bought a set of cables from BatteryCablesUSA and they came quickly and seem pretty nice. I know the red color isn't stock but I liked it. That got mostly covered up anyway since I covered the positive cable with nylon corrugated tube to protect it. I moved the wire tags over from the originals too.



    Specs:

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