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Old December 26th, 2018, 06:10 PM
aussiecowboy aussiecowboy is offline
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Default Torque spec needed

I'm putting a locker in the rear axle and need the torque spec for the ring of bolts holding the two halves of the carrier together.

Thanks
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Old December 27th, 2018, 08:04 AM
Nailhead Nailhead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiecowboy View Post
I'm putting a locker in the rear axle and need the torque spec for the ring of bolts holding the two halves of the carrier together.

Thanks
See above in the Online Maintenance Manual section?
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Old December 29th, 2018, 06:41 AM
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I believe you need paragraph 14-7 of this page from the -34 maintenance manual linked in the Online Maintenance Manuals link at the top of the page:

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/view.php?pg=34chapter14
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Old December 29th, 2018, 07:41 PM
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Was it the carrier bolts in the axle housing that were too high in the manual? Like 85#? Just to make sure AC doesn’t torque them too much. I remember mine just starting to give and I stopped before it became critical. Did we decided 75# was good enough?
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Old December 30th, 2018, 05:33 AM
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Doug made a great post on that problem...i highlighted the portion that deals with the bolt stretching/torque value problem:

Quote:
Todd, the "Full" Detroit is a complete carrier and would require setting up the gears. A "Lunch Box" type installs inside your existing carrier in place of the spider gears, that's what you want.

The front I have is also a Lunch Box type, and is way under $1000. I bought mine used and haven't checked prices for quite a while, but guessing it's around $400-$450.

I'd run the chains before I'd run with one hub unlocked.


Rear install:
Chock the tires and put the t-case in neutral, no jacks are required.

Remove nuts on the axle flanges, smack center of axle flange hard with a two pound hammer until all 8 cone washers(per side) are free. Remove axle shaft...actually, you only need to slide it out 6" or so.

Remove diff cover and catch fluid in drain pan. Carrier is held in by two bearing caps, each has two bolts. Remove those bolts and pop the bearing caps loose...might use a wood block and a hammer if they don't come off by simply pulling on them. Make a note for re-installtion of which cap was on which side and which way was up.

The carrier is now ready to come out. It would be a good idea to set up a safety net of some sort to catch it as it is heavy and you'll be doing a juggling trick or some sorts to get it out. Laying a few layers of cardboard on the ground where it might fall isn't a bad idea. The carrier case is a two piece unit, you'll be able to see the bolts that hold the two halves together, hook one of the bolt heads with a small pry bar and use the diff case to pry against, not much pressure is needed to get it our so go easy, slowly rotate the drive shaft yoke with your free hand (yes, I realize you don't really have a "free" hand right now). Rotating the drive shaft yoke sort of unscrews the pinion from the ring gear and greatly facilitates the extraction. As soon as the baby's head starts to crown, oh shat, wrong directions, anyway, at some point, you'll know the carrier is free and ready to roll out in your hands, be ready as it's heavy!

With the carrier out and on your bench, you can separate the case halves by removing the bolts. Then remove the spider gears and follow the directions included with the locker, we also have them scanned on the zone for late night reading. I just quickly went over them and found one thing I missed...marking the case halves so that they get mated back together in the original position. Anyway, here they are.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/man...erinstall.html

Assembly is pretty much the reverse of removal, IIRC case halve bolts torque is 55lbs. Carrier bearing is list as 85 in some books on up to 115lbs in others. My bolts stretched at slightly over 100lbs and I ended up replacing them to restore my confidence, if you're reusing the original bolts I wouldn't torque them over 95lbs.


Front install is very similar, but you do have to remove the front tires to get the front axle shafts slid out, so you will need jack stands. Axle shaft removal on the front is also more time consuming due to removing the brake drums, hubs and such.

It's been a few years, so forgive me if I omitted some details...but all in all, that is all it takes. Of course, don't forget to check the inside of the diff and carrier for dirt and debris, clean as required, refill with new fluid when done. Good to have a new diff cover gasket on hand also.
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