Transfer case issue

[Kaiser68]

No worries, I completely understand. My boss corrects me all the time lol, thank you I'll work on it.

[gerrykan]

Short paragraphs make it easier for us old guys to read on the computer screen.

As for as grammar, etc, there are a lot of college educated folks walking around nowadays that cannot write complete sentences.
I had no problem understanding yours.

[Kaiser68]

I will do my best at trying to paragraph everything, I'm glad it's understandable to read. and yea I think it's sad the lack of education our public schools have, the whole no child left behind act is the biggest crock of bull, I'll stop my rant before I even get started lol.

[wolf.dose]

O.K.,
let's summ it up.
the tansfer case has a problem with spilling oil directly into the direction of the venting hose. Unfortunately the oil will not run back into the transfer case, when the transmission cools down.
Due to the clogged vent pipe the pressure in the transfer builts up and presses oil out of the weakest part.
In your case I think, a transfer case repair set of seals is a good choise. If the kit is stored the propper way, the seals are still useable, even 40+ years old. However, you have to rework all contact surfaces. They need to be mashine polished, so no grove is left on them. The new seals have to contact a perfect surface to act as seals.
New seals of the same make are not available any more. You can buy new seals, however, they have no a dust lip.
For the mentioned problem of the vent I'm working on a solution with something like a cup obove the vent, where from the vent hose will be connected to the venting system.
One more thing: you say the vent hose was burned down on the exhaust. If the routing of the vent hoses are somewhat original, they are on the left side on the frame. And even with a V8, where the exhaust is somewhat located where the original exhaust is located, this is not possible. Rerout the vent hoses or reroute the exhaust pipes.
Hope this helps.
Sorry for my poor English, I'm just a German who owns a M715 since 32+ years.
Wolf

[gonz]

Also is there an info on switching the rear driveshaft to the same output as the e-brake to quiet it down.

Quick history for the Zone: There have been at least 3 different boards for the zone over the years, switching each time the servers/hard drives with all the information blew up beyond repair. So we lost a lot of information each time.
There have been write ups on how to move the drive shaft over to the ebrake output. And by most accounts, it reduced the noise as well as the tcase temperatures. People had parts machined to get it done, for what prices I can't remember.
I'm a much less mechanically inclined type of guy, so I went with a divorced tcase NP205 from a dodge. Had to weld up some brakets and I lost the ebrake, but I got the tcase after scrounging craigs list for like $50 or $100, I can't remember how much.
Some of the guys that did the ebrake move may have some great advice on how to do it, but I can't remember who did it and if they're still around.

[MrNeutron]

Don't you loose the ability to use 4LO if you move the rear propshaft to the Brake flange?

[Mikel]

Don't you loose the ability to use 4LO if you move the rear propshaft to the Brake flange?

No, in a NP200 both rear outputs are tied at all times.

[glenn]

BJ's Offroad offers a kit to center the rear driveline to reduce the noise. They also have a few other M715 specific parts.

[wrecker]

I cooked the np200 due to low oil from the leak. Like you, my engine and transmission are not original so I switched to a np205 t-case. The brake hardware can be transferred with a little machine work. Barrman has a good step by step post if you search modified tech. The 205 has only one rear output and that required a purchased part from Tom Woods driveline in my case to mount my driveshaft. That part was pricey, but I have a better t-case, with less noise.

[Kaiser68]

Thank you all for your input, the transfer case is fine, I don't think It over heated like I thought. I believe I think it overheated due to the amount of smoke that was in the cab, where the gear oil was leaking being thrown from the driveshaft onto the exhaust pipe. There was one vent tube open. A line after a y piece that split a vent tube into two lines. One line had the mud in it the other that y off that same line was open. And I think the seal was already bad but got worse on its first long haul after sitting for so long. The worst thing for a vehicle is to sit for a extended length of time. Dry rotting seals and such.