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  #1  
Old January 10th, 2011, 09:04 AM
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Default May have located NOS Coils

A 6 year old thread indicated US made OEM coils for the M715 are all gone.

From pictures of them, I feel confident I "may" have found a source overseas that appear to be the American made original. Perhaps amassed during a past conflict as part of our supply line.

Anyhow I ordered one today. I'll report back how it looks "in-hand".

Kip
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Old January 10th, 2011, 11:54 AM
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I have bought a coil from Eriks surplus, item# was 118712, if I remember that correct. Delivered without any problem.
http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/igco24vo11.html
don't know whether this is NOS or not, but it should work.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 12:02 PM
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What timing. I'm in the process of bidding on a coil on e-bay right now. 8hrs left. I left my ignition switch on for the first time (I knew it would happen sooner or later) and I'm afraid I may have fried the coil. Haven't reinstalled the batteries yet. The batteries are new Interstates, and I charged them back to 12.5 volts. It's just to darn cold to go work out in the garage. The truck is only a toy for me, so no real hurry. Plus I had both of my knees replaced at the same time, and it's alittle harder to do things quickly now. Except when it's time to drive the truck, then I just hop in, and excersize that new left knee with the clutch pedal! Where did you locate the coils? How much, if you don't mind me asking? It looks like mine will cost me $50.00+ shipping. The price I have to pay for not paying attention I guess.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 12:08 PM
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Geez N2S3, am I dumb or what? Here you are in Germany, and you order from Eriks Military Supply, a company I've dealt with before, and I'm in a bidding war over a coil on e-bay. I need to pull my head outa my a..! Oh well, maybe I'll be outbid in the next 7hrs.
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Old January 10th, 2011, 02:20 PM
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Default Oops

Quote:
Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
Geez N2S3, am I dumb or what? Here you are in Germany, and you order from Eriks Military Supply, a company I've dealt with before, and I'm in a bidding war over a coil on e-bay. I need to pull my head outa my a..! Oh well, maybe I'll be outbid in the next 7hrs.
I put one bid on an active listing and "someone" outbid me. You and I BOTH appear to have been unaware Erik's had one which shines like an import, but resembles OEM on the top-side. Doesn't say in the listing ;
http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/igco24vo11.html

Here's the link to the one I found in Istanbul ;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
$18 shipping was added to the $27 BIN price. It's on its way.

Looks pretty old, but listed as new. He has numerous items which appear to be vintage in his store.

Hopefully they are authentic, as I'd read posts which seem to imply the import clone coils are less resilient than the copy, which may or may not instead be attention to the switch being left on instead. This oddysey is alllllll brand new to me, being my 1st mil/surp vehicle. Learning as I go and please recall I have never even heard this truck run... yet.
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  #6  
Old January 10th, 2011, 04:37 PM
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The coil of the M151 series is exactly the same.
Wolf
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Old January 11th, 2011, 03:40 AM
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Guess i'm not the only one with coil trouble. Seems to be a commomn problem. I really don't know if mine went bad after I left the ignition on, but i'm assuming it did. I need to reinstall the charged batteries to find out. Having an extra isn't a bad idea tho.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 09:42 AM
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You can test the coil with a multi-meter. Jon posted this a while back.

Quote:
Put you meter on the 10 Ohms scale, or the closest you have to that...disconnect all the wires to the coil. Measure fom one small terminal to the other and post the reading you get...this is called the Primary resistance.

For reference, the factory coil in these trucks measures 4.26. 4.9 ohms in good condition.

Then you can measure from the tower, also known as the high tension lead or the point where the big spark plug type wire connects, to the small positive terminal on the coil. This will need you to put the ohm meter on a scale that goes to 10,000 or so.

This is called the Secondary resistance...for reference the stock setup measures from 12090 to 13910 ohms when in good condition.
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Old January 11th, 2011, 10:12 AM
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I left my switch on for 2 days last summer and the truck ran fine for a couple of weeks and then wouldnt start. Found out the coil was bad, purchased a replacement coil Part# S-B124 from John Bisel at Midwest Military in MN, replaced it and ran fine. My thoughts are that sometimes instead of just going out they are weakened by leaving the switch on and dont go completely out for a while.
Usually at a really bad time!
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Last edited by BlessedM715; January 11th, 2011 at 10:26 AM. Reason: added Part Number
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  #10  
Old January 11th, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Thanks Kwai, I've got a new coil ordered, but I sure will test the old one before I remove it. As long as the cap is off I also want to lube the felt pad on top that takes care of the upper part of the distributor shaft. I've never had the ignitor apart, and this will be a good time to take care of some maintanance issues. I would think the coil and lube pad are fairly accessable once the cover is off. Any other thoughts by you would be greatly appreciated. Tanks again.
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