Another oil tube question

[Von]

I know this subject has been rode into the ground... Just need to kick the horse one more time.

Does anyone know the thread size of the hole in the back of the head? the one the elbow goes into, not the elbow itself?

I think Brute may have answered that here:
Oil Line Blew
but just want confirmation... 1/8 NPT? sounds small...

My oil hose is leaking and am going to run a hard line, but somebody has replaced both elbows and have no idea what's on it now. Bottom hose fitting is female, don't know what's on top but it feels like it may be female too.

the truck is my only transport when my wife is at work so I need to get all my ducks in a row before I pull the old hose off.

Now wondering why they changed the elbows and if maybe they broke one and tapped a bigger size? I'll plan for going back stock size and also get hardware for next size up, just in case.

i think in the thread above someone suggested making a two part tube for easier install and putting a union in.
Good idea, think I'll do that.

[67U20]

When I did the hard line install, 1/8 NPT in the head. When you do the tightening of the fitting, put a plug into the line side to prevent distortion of the fitting. It doesn't take much to distort that brass fitting.

[Von]

When I did the hard line install, 1/8 NPT in the head. When you do the tightening of the fitting, put a plug into the line side to prevent distortion of the fitting. It doesn't take much to distort that brass fitting.

Good idea, I'll add that to my shopping list!

Thanks man.

[Don Cavey]

When I did the hard line install, 1/8 NPT in the head. When you do the tightening of the fitting, put a plug into the line side to prevent distortion of the fitting. It doesn't take much to distort that brass fitting.

Absolutely important. And if you are going to make the steel line, you will no doubt have the steel flare nut that you slide over the tubing BEFORE making the flare (Yes, I have done a flare only to notice that the nut was NOT on the tubing ). You can use one of those nuts instead of buying a plug. However, maybe that IS what you were referring to.

[67U20]

Absolutely important. And if you are going to make the steel line, you will no doubt have the steel flare nut that you slide over the tubing BEFORE making the flare (Yes, I have done a flare only to notice that the nut was NOT on the tubing ). You can use one of those nuts instead of buying a plug. However, maybe that IS what you were referring to.

Yes Don, The steel 'B' nut would work if one doesn't have a regular fitting plug.
As well, being a brass 1/8" NPT, do not expect to 'bottom' the threads out.
You will have 4 or 5 threads exposed, as long as one used a 'sealant' on the threads it should be leak free. I have used Permatex #2 and Teflon paste quite successfully.

Photobucket is down for maintenance right now so I can't post pictures of a 1/8" NPT fitting installation.

[Don Cavey]

As they say "What he said!. ^^^

[67U20]

A bit difficult to see, was staged 'on the run'... So take it as the concept of the method. Anyway in this case I used an inverted flare to AN (steel) adaptor fitting. It does not need to be tight just snug so removal is easy after the brass is adaptor is tightened to the desired position. Not recommending you use a Crescent wrench as well, just showing to keep the 'flats' aligned so you are not using the plug to do anything other than providing internal support of the brass fitting. This keeps the internals of the brass from distorting and making it difficult if not impossible to connect a regular line fitting.

[Don Cavey]

A bit difficult to see, was staged 'on the run'... So take it as the concept of the method. Anyway in this case I used an inverted flare to AN (steel) adaptor fitting. It does not need to be tight just snug so removal is easy after the brass is adaptor is tightened to the desired position. Not recommending you use a Crescent wrench as well, just showing to keep the 'flats' aligned so you are not using the plug to do anything other than providing internal support of the brass fitting. This keeps the internals of the brass from distorting and making it difficult if not impossible to connect a regular line fitting.

...

Excellent writeup and thanks for taking the time to post the picture. Spot on information that will really help us to NOT damage the fitting whilst installing it.

Thanks!

[Von]

Thanks for all the info guys.

I changed the line out yesterday while "supervising" my daughter and son-in-law changing oil and checking fluids on their cars yesterday.

I had planned on going back with stock-ish fittings and using 5/16 brake line and fittings like others have. But all the local hardware stores don't stock anything for 5/16 lines. I found 5/16 unions at Lowes, that was it. Home Depot and Sutherlands had a whole bunch of nada.

The only 1/8 elbows available have 1/4 compression fittings on the other end. I made do with what I could get that day... the old hose was cracked pretty bad, no turning back once I had it off.

I ended up using the bottom fitting the last guy put in, which is an inverted flare, and 1/4 line instead of 5/16. The bottom fitting on the tee is IN THERE.... was afraid I'd bust it before I got it off so I just used it as is.

I made the top piece first, cutting the line long enough to use it as a handle while screwing the fitting into the head. Then bent the bottom tube so it would meet the top piece and used a union to mate the two. So far it's leak free.

So, another question!
Do you guys think 1/4 tubing will give me enough oil flow to keep my cam alive?
My brain is telling me the same volume of oil is going up there but at a little higher pressure because of the smaller tube... and that it will be fine, maybe even get oil to the top a little faster at startup. But my heart isn't so sure and is worried the front of the cam could be starved at high RPMs... and my heart knows what a liar my brain can be sometimes. It's such a worry wart...

Hoping my brain is right because I do NOT like laying on that motor.
I got hit by a drunk in Feb, 2013. Busted back. L1 burst fracture and now fused T11 to L3... playing contortionist atop motors aint my thing anymore.
If I'd had more than an afternoon to work with I'd have pulled the engine to get at it.

[67U20]

I doubt there will be an issue, when you look at the inside diameter of the 90* fitting. It is what it is, 1/8" pipe. Going to a larger I.D. of line only will slow the start up oil flow as it has to fill up that space before it can begin to begin oiling the cam bearings etc.