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Thread: Project: In over my head (again)

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    When you put those screws back on. Use anti-seize. Then the next time you take them off. One whack with an impact driver and they are loose. Mine have come off that way for almost 14 years now.

    Also, you do want to put them back on. I am sure some have left them off without issues. But, the one widely written about person here on the Zone that left them off had a tire leave his truck while coming home from the 2004 FE on I-40 at speed. I ended up buying those axles from him soon after because he went to 14ff/D60's.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
    A quick question for you guys, Does anyone know the specs for the drum retaining screws? I can't find anything despite my best efforts. The best guess that I have is that they're 3/8"-16 thread and are 3/4" in overall length. Is this correct? I'm also planning on switching to the hex head. Thanks for the help.
    I recently parted out a 71 F-250 2wd for the 360 and T-18. While I was picking over other parts to keep I noticed the front drums had similar retaining screws. I snagged them but haven't had a chance to pull a wheel on my truck and see if they're the same... but they for sure looked the same.
    ... I know that's no help right now, but knowledge of a potential junk yard source might be good.
    I'll try to verify fitment at first opportunity.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old_Red_Jeep View Post
    I'm also planning on switching to the hex head. Thanks for the help.
    I'm assuming you mean flat head socket bolt? A hex head would not sit flush with the face of the drum.

    I have had good success with re-installing the lug nuts after the wheel is removed and tightening them down to take the pressure off the retaining bolts.

    I do not recall the bolt size but will be pulling my wheels today and will measure one.

  4. #44

    Default

    I'm pretty sure he is talking about flat head counter sunk hex head screws. Great idea.
    That is one of the few things that I myself, went away from stock design and used, and haven't regretted it.





  5. #45

    Default

    Hey all,

    so believe it or not, last Sunday I got to the point with the truck where I was feeling particularly ballsy and I DROVE IT!!! I had to jerry rig a gas can to act as a fuel tank but hey, it worked! mostly. The only issue is that the front brake T fitting started leaking and after driving for a couple miles the engine started acting up. It didn't want to stay idling and if you stand beside the engine and give it constant throttle, it will rev up, hit kind of a "dead spot", then burst back to life. I guess I need to rebuild the carb? maybe the fuel filter's just clogged? I dunno, but it drove!!! There is hope!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRNFzQP88Xc

    @hayeselmotors

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Dirt in the needle/seat for the float is probably your issue.

    Kind of neat getting to drive it?
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #47

    Default

    Thanks for sharing the video. Loved it!

    I can relate to the excitement of driving our trucks for the first time.

    Got to love that gear whine. These trucks have a sound all of their own with the tornado engine, and the whiney transfer case.

  8. #48

    Default

    Hey all, In an attempt to figure out the engine stumble and unwillingness to stay running I figured that I'd clean out the carb. Well, it's looking like it was a good idea wether it fixes the problem of not. there's a lot of varnish and flaky gunk built up. I've chipped off what I could and blown it out and now it's sitting in some kerosene in an attempt to clean it out further. I'm also going to swap at the fuel filter for good measure. Hopefully I'll order everything to fix the fuel system in the next week or so.






    @hayeselmotors

  9. #49

    Default

    Kerosene isn't a strong enough solvent to clean that up. I would at the very least go get a couple cans of spray carb solvent and spray the hell out of that thing after disassembling it. Better yet, dunk all the metal parts in one of those Berryman carb cleaner cans, or an ultrasonic cleaner.

    Treat that float like gold if it's any good: they are no longer available.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

    Default

    Agree, kerosene will not dissolve the varnish. Berkebile Oil 2 + 2 Gum Cutter works well.

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