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Thread: Stupid question about rear axle shaft removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Newport News, Va.
    Posts
    297

    Default Stupid question about rear axle shaft removal

    Hi all. I have a bad leaky shaft seal on the right rear stock Dana 70.

    I need to change the seals. Has anyone posted a sort of "shaft seal replacement for dummies" instructions here?

    I haven't been able to find much and wan't to do the work myself.

    Thanks in advance.

    Dave Zelinski
    W4CPO
    Even Chuck Norris drove a 715.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    Hey Dave, coincidently I just changed all mine recently. The rears are pretty simple really. They only have the one seal that fits into the backside of the hub.

    All I did was , remove the wheel, the drum, and then the nuts holding on the hub. Then just slide the hub off and viola'. Remove and replace like any other seal. I did clean up the axle shaft with solvent and a scotchbrite just to get rid of the rusty crud buildup before I reinstalled the hub and seal.

    I also repacked the bearings and had to replace the left rear due to flaking/galling on the brgs. Glad I did, it would've given me trouble later.

    Anyway, it's a pretty simple process (Hey, I did it just by looking at the manual....), it's just messy and greasy to do. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,731

    Default

    Following the manual as FNG wrote covers it all. However, you might get stuck by the "washers" around the axle flange studs.

    They are conical shaped and recessed into the flange. Get all 8 nuts, shackle mount and washers off. Then, yours will either pull right out or not move and drive you mad. Hitting the end with a big hammer, but not touching the studs, will knock the washers loose. Pliers will help pulling them off the studs. Then you can pull the axle shaft out and the job is just like any other wheel bearing service.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  4. #4

    Default

    Hitting the end with a big hammer, but not touching the studs, will knock the washers loose.
    I always hope for the stuck washers. No better therapy than whacking the axle with the BFH.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,731

    Default

    Very good point. Doing the axles is really kind of fun. Just don't hit a stud or it will ruin your day.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  6. #6

    Default

    If only the axles were drilled and threaded like so many other makes/models are. Just run a bolt in and 'jack' the axles out.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fng View Post
    I also repacked the bearings and had to replace the left rear due to flaking/galling on the brgs. Glad I did, it would've given me trouble later.

    Why did you repack the rear bearings?

  8. #8

    Default

    Why did you repack the rear bearings?
    I always put grease in new bearings. It'll wash out over time but it does keep the new bearing lubed until the diff oil get's circulated.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Springdale, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    Yep, what he said.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Interesting. I never did that.

    What I do is find the nearest slope and approach it sideways from both directions so that gear oil goes into both hubs.

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