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Thread: The 396-6.2 swap project

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default The 396-6.2 swap project

    The project begins.

    The 396 threw a rod back in March. Life, money and Scouts have kept me from getting it running again. We are a year round school, but we really don't have class in August except for next week. After Labor day, it is a new school year. I wanted to start getting thing in place so when the students start back, we have stuff to work on. That meant the M715 had to be in the class.

    The problem is getting it to my class and then getting it in my class. My room is 80 x 40 with 4 bay doors on one of the 80' walls. We all know a M715 isn't the lightest thing in the world or easy to push by hand. My doors aren't big enough to back a M715 on a trailer into the room and there isn't enough room outside to roll off the trailer directly into my room either. That meant it needed to be pulled into the room.

    I did some measuring and moved a few things around. Then figured out the M1009 could fit with the M715 tow bar attached to it. Then, the M1009 would be small enough to turn itself around in the room and drive out another door.

    The big question once that was figured out was, would the M1009 pull the M715? 3.08 gears aren't exactly the best for doing anything besides cruising down the road. Plus, the M1009 is a few thousand pounds lighter and a bit shorter with almost no heft over the rear tires.

    Colton and I hooked up the tow bar last night. My M35 rear shackle mounts bored out to fit a 1" pin and installed on top of the bumper in 2008 had rusted up enough that the pins wouldn't fit. I got to use the M715 tow bar adaptors for the first time! It took some doing, but the M1009 pulled the M715 out of the field and over by my shop so I could remove as much stuff from both trucks as possible. At least I knew it would roll.





    I can't have a phone or camera at work, so they couldn't make the trip this morning. I was pleased with how much umph the 6.2 showed pulling as fast as I wanted to go while I was trying to figure out if it would handle. Turns out the max Q for a M1009 pulling a M715 is the same speed as a M715 pulling a M35. 27 mph! That was the fastest speed I could go and not have the vehicle in back decide which way we were going to go. I probably could have gotten a few more mph if I had aired up the front M715 tires. They are at 25 psi or so.

    I could accelerate past 35 with no troubles on straight road. However, once I got off the power, the M715 would decide we were going to go left or right, not me. Once I figured that out, we idled along at 27 all the way to work. It fit in my room like I thought, the M1009 got back out of my room and then I just finished checking the alignment on the M1009 just to see how the front end is living.

    Now I just need to bring in a 6.2, buy a flywheel, clutch, figure out exhaust and decide if I want to stay messed up wiring 12V, replace all the wires on the truck with a new M35 harness I have and go all 24V, put in the new harness and make it a 12/24 system like a CUCV or put in the new harness and stay 12V. I can find positives to each as well as negatives. Oh well, I have a few weeks before I really have to figure it out.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  2. #2

    Default

    Go 24V. It will make the M715 wiring easier in the long run. Also then when I get to that point in my project I can ask you questions...
    Zone holster maker

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    24 is the easiest. Since a M35 harness is the same as a M715 harness which is the same as a M37 harness except for how long the blinker wiring is. It would make things real easy. However, I have a nice set of 12 volt gauges. That means I need to replace the dash panel and gauge panel, remove my locking center console with stereo, cb radio and most important of all. A pair of cup holders to put the stock battery box back in.

    But, I will need two batteries no matter what I do. So, if I remove my on board air tanks from under the bed, put the batteries down there, use the CUCV dual volt system. Then, I can add air conditioning! Wouldn't that be cool? Jump or slave start any vehicle depending on how we hook up, listen to tunes, get good mpg and be comfortable.

    I really think I want to find a 3/8 line sized ball valve to put in the fuel return line from the IP. Then, I can pull the tongs off the IP solenoid so the engine will run without any power to it and a M35 kill cable can be added under the dash. With the NV4500, total EMP protection.

    Of course as we were hooking up last night, Colton asked me why I am not going to add a turbo? I told him the bomber would be the best candidate for a turbo since it can be more usefull to the family. But??????
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Another dilemma just popped into my head. Vacuum or no vacuum. I actually like my vacuum wipers on the M715. With the 6.2, I will have a continuous supply of 17-20" hg when ever the engine is running. That means wipers that work the same speed up hill or down hill. However, I also want a tachometer. I can pull the 6.2 vacuum pump and put in a 6.2 mechanical tach drive. Then mount up a M35 tach and cable.

    Hmmm, I guess my 12 or 24 volt question is tied into this. Staying 12 volts for the truck means I just need to buy the Autometer diesel adaptor and keep my 12 V electric tach and vacuum wipers. Going 24 volt for the truck will mean a new gauge panel to put the stock ones back in and 24 wiper motors. Argh, the hidden cost are coming to light.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  5. #5

    Default

    Why not mechanical tach and belt driven Vacuum pump? Thats what Im doing with my truck. Ill Have vacuum for the wipers and brake booster.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I have run non power brakes for the past 11 years and if I go power, it will be with a Hydroboost so no vacuum needed for that.

    Then it comes down to pulleys. I can do power steering, 2 Delco alternators like a CUCV and an a/c compressor if I stay 12 volt or do 12/24. If I go 24, it will be with a military huge alternator and 2 belts driving it. I have all of those parts already bought.

    The 6.2 has an oil pump that needs to be driven just like a SBC gasser. So, something has to go in the hole at the back of the valley. I have just a plug with a gear drive and nothing on top, a vacuum pump and a mechanical tach drive. Except for the wipers, I have no need of the vacuum pump due to the NV4500. If I was going put in an auto, it would be a 700R4 with also doesn't need the vacuum.

    Now Lee used an on demand electric vacuum pump when he put the 4BT in his truck. Astro vans, Cavaliers and a few other GM cars had them for some reason I never understood.

    Again, lots of options.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #7

    Default

    Once you try hydroboost brakes you will never go back, they are awesome. Some of the Ford Superdutys with diesels had electric vacuum pumps too, I think they were all in the 7.3 ones. The engine and getting it mounted in your 715 are a very small part of the total bill in both time and money. Its the little things that will add up in an engine swap.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    1,694

    Default

    Looking forward to your 6.2 swap Tim
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,245

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Flingarrows View Post
    Looking forward to your 6.2 swap Tim
    Me too.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I have Hydro boost on the CUCV's and Blue Bomber already. I do like it. When we made a bracket to mount a hydroboost to the truck my class is building for Sermis, we made two so I have that already. I just haven't bothered to put one on.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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