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Thread: M724 rear axle disconnect coupling

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

    Default M724 rear axle disconnect coupling



    Have any of you messed with one of those things? Mine is pretty wobbly and the seal is shot.

    I had my drive shaft lengthened and used the spline and slip yoke from the old shaft going from the parking brake output to the welder that used to be on the truck.

    Got the new shaft put in yesterday and started to remove the old disconnect coupling. Then I could see if the flange was loose on the output shaft, maybe replace the seal and tighten it back up... or see if something more dire is going on in there.

    I THOUGHT I could unbolt the six bolts at the back and that would leave a flange on the output, but when I got the bolts loose trans grease started pouring out....

    I need to change the oil in it anyway, so I'll drain it and start taking things apart again today.

    But hoping somebody has been into one of those and can give me a heads up on this thing.

    Even if I can replace the seal and tighten it up I really don't want that whole thing hanging off the back of my transfer case. I was expecting to leave the 6 bolt flange but that isn't going to happen. Guess I could scrounge up a regular yoke to put in there.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

    Default

    I drained the case and wasted about 30 minutes trying to disassemble the couple under the truck. Pulled the center bolt and the snap ring and banged and tugged and pried on it, couldn't get it apart. Ended up just pulling the 6 bolts on the flange again.

    the nut on the flange was a little loose... well, loose enough the outside edge of the flange is shiny from rubbing on the crossmember.

    Tightened it up and refilled, fluid dribbling out past the seal...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

    Default

    LOL, OK, got it done.

    It is just a plain old slide/coupling thingy on a flange. When that grease started coming out of it it kinda threw me for a loop. Didn't know what the heck I was dealing with.

    The nut holding the flange onto the output shaft was loose and grease was leaking past the shaft and collecting in there.

    Got an output shaft seal for a 72 Jimmy NP205 and slapped it back together.

    Took it up on the highway and by golly! It drives more like a truck and less like a tractor now! Used to feel like I had a Brush Hog on the back.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,521

    Default

    As far as I remember, this is the first time someone has posted pics and details about doing this...

    Thanks for posting it...sorry I cant help...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    603

    Default

    Something I just thought of... are there torque specs on the nut for the output yoke?

    That yoke is holding the bearing in place. I didn't think about it when I put it back on, I just cranked it down. But now I'm wondering if I tightened it up too much for that bearing.

    I ran to the grocery store a few blocks down the street and when I was idling through the parking lot I heard a squeaking noise in time with the drive train.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Von View Post
    Something I just thought of...


    ...when I was idling through the parking lot I heard a squeaking noise in time with the drive train.
    Let's just hope that sound was a dry U-Joint. From experience, I have heard that sound many times on many vehicles and found the tell-tale brown power stain around the U-Joint cup. They are easy to replace and inexpensive.

    I'm hoping for 'ya!

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