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Thread: 230 Rear Main Seal Leaking

  1. #1

    Question 230 Rear Main Seal Leaking

    I noticed the clutch cover plug hole is dripping on my truck, so I'm wondering if it's possible to change out the rear main seal without pulling the engine. My winch bumper is welded to the frame, so it's difficult to get a hoist close enough to the engine to lift it.

    Thanks for any help, especially if it turns out I don't have to pull the engine.

  2. #2

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    Probably faster to pull the engine. Also makes it easy to get at the rear oil line. And to clean and paint the engine. And replace the valve cover gasket. And replace the water pump and bypass hose. And replace the manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. And replace the motor mounts.

    Oh, nevermind. It only seems faster.

  3. #3

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    I was able to change my rear main seal with out pulling the engine but I was able to use a carlift , dropped the oil pan and the two piece seal housing spun right out but the had to cut oil pan gasket at the ends because in didn't remove timing cover end but a little rtv sealed it at the end

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwai View Post
    Probably faster to pull the engine. Also makes it easy to get at the rear oil line. And to clean and paint the engine. And replace the valve cover gasket. And replace the water pump and bypass hose. And replace the manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. And replace the motor mounts.

    Oh, nevermind. It only seems faster.
    Thanks, Kwai...I think.

    The rear oil line was replaced with a 3/8 copper/Swagelok compression combo before the engine/trans went in the truck. It seems to be working great.

    The new valve cover gasket on that engine ensures that any new paint would be pretty quickly hidden by oil & dust. It seems to me it was designed to keep gravel, bugs, cartridge cases, etc., from getting in, not to prevent oil from getting out.

    The water pump is working perfectly, the bypass hose will be replaced next week, and the manifold gasket was replaced when the engine went in. The engine mounts look alright.

    The problem is, I can't get the front clip off the truck because of the way the winch bumper is mounted, which means the engine/trans has to be lifted over the sheetmetal "hoop" behind the radiator, all while the engine hoist is maxed out and about 14" too far back. It's really no fun at all seeing that all that weight that high up and knowing how quickly it could all go wrong.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by jokerwild12345 View Post
    I was able to change my rear main seal with out pulling the engine but I was able to use a carlift , dropped the oil pan and the two piece seal housing spun right out but the had to cut oil pan gasket at the ends because in didn't remove timing cover end but a little rtv sealed it at the end
    Thank you very much-- I'll keep that in mind.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
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    3,689

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    Come on guys, that leaking rear main seal is a built in function. The Tornado 230 has a self-changing oil function! You never have to change oil. (Which reminds me, my oil needs to be changed )

    Seriously, good info and thanks!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Cavey View Post
    Come on guys, that leaking rear main seal is a built in function. The Tornado 230 has a self-changing oil function! You never have to change oil. (Which reminds me, my oil needs to be changed )

    Seriously, good info and thanks!
    So this engine is kind of like an old Harley, then: oil leaks are just part of the package?

    I don't want to go to the trouble if it's going to start dripping again while I'm backing it out of the shop.

  8. #8

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    how bad is it leaking ? I change mine when it was pouring out and now it drips here and there

  9. #9

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    As long as it is still leaking you are good go. It's when it stops that you have a problem.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by jokerwild12345 View Post
    how bad is it leaking ? I change mine when it was pouring out and now it drips here and there
    Hard to tell-- I just don't want to ruin a brand-new clutch. A free brand-new clutch.

    There's always an oil droplet hanging off the lip of that plug thread on the clutch cover, but how much leaks while I'm driving isn't clear. The output shaft seal on the trans, and pretty much all the seals on the t-case leak, so I can't really tell a whole lot by the oil staining on the rear axle. The engine needs a half quart pretty regularly, but then the valve cover gasket leaks and so does the front crankshaft seal...

    I'm working my down the list of defects this truck has, trying to get things like seals to seal, wheel bearings repacked, valve clearances checked, parking brake adjusted (again), etc.

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