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Thread: 230 Cold Valve Adjustment Spec?

  1. #1

    Default 230 Cold Valve Adjustment Spec?

    I just finished reading the valve adjustment procedure in one of the the online manuals, and the procedure calls for the engine to be warmed up & running.

    Is there a cold clearance specification that I can use to avoid the mess and safety concerns that go with working on a running valve train?

    Thanks as usual.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Southern New Hampshire
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    Because as the engine warms up clearances get smaller, if they give you a warm and running measurement, going .002" larger should give the approximate cold adjustment. Most engines are always done warm and running, VW flat four is one of the few I know are done cold and off.


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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by 67smith View Post
    Because as the engine warms up clearances get smaller, if they give you a warm and running measurement, going .002" larger should give the approximate cold adjustment. Most engines are always done warm and running, VW flat four is one of the few I know are done cold and off.


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    Noted-- thank you.

    This is the first engine I've ever owned that calls for an idling valve adjustment. Obviously, a shim-&-bucket valve train can't be adjusted running, but those with rocker arms: Fiats (500, 600, 850), FJ-40's, BMW airheads, oilheads, Kohlers that I've messed with NEVER called for an idling valve adjustment. Totally new (and somewhat questionable) to me.

    Thank you again.

  4. #4
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    Sep 1998
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    North Central Wisconsin
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    11,524

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    I always warm it up and then shut it off and roll the crank around with the belts or the crank bolt to get the cam in the right position to adjust the valves on each cylinder...just follow the timing order and put the point...nose...of the cam pointing straight down.
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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    I always warm it up and then shut it off and roll the crank around with the belts or the crank bolt to get the cam in the right position to adjust the valves on each cylinder...just follow the timing order and put the point...nose...of the cam pointing straight down.
    The "quieting arc" of the cam, as my old Alfa shop manual called it, at the adjuster.

    I'm going to forgo the warming and go with the cold temp correction mentioned above for comfort purposes. I'll probably be sitting on the top of the radiator, leaning on the exhaust manifold to get this done.

    Thanks Jon.

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