Wire harness mod (pictures)

[Don Cavey]

Friggin sweeeet...
The fuse holder.... and the crimpers.
Now that's steppin it up a notch.
Durn Purists

make me feel guilty
BTW 14 Ga on 24 volts makes sense...
I'm used to 10 ga for 12 volt, hence the earlier suggestion.

It took me a LONG time to locate that old crimper. It works, ain't pretty but gets the job done. For years, I used the back side of dykes etc. like everyone else. I believe in solder whenever possible.

[fng]

I don't have one of those crimpers either but so far I have had very good luck with slight disassembly of the connectors, pass the wire thru, crimp and solder the connection and slide the boot back down over the connection.

Works for me.

BTW, I located the #85 wire and it's right in the middle of the dash so it'd be an easy routing to feed two spot lights. Anyone else know if it'll carry that load?

[Blitz]

You should be able to run 10 amps @ 24 volts at 240 watts for 17 feet, on 14 gauge wire.

that is the good thing about 24 volt.

smaller wire gauge, for the same amps.

I would still fuse it, at # 85 connector ( after the stock connector ) and before Your spider harness.

10 amps will probably work, but you will be pulling 10.008 amps.

So a 15 amp will prevent pre mature failure, at a slight risk to heating the wires.

( there is always a "reserve" amp capacity built into the sizing charts and MNGF data. ) at least 10 % , probably more like 20 %

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Supp...ctionTable.pdf

A note on SOLDER.

You must must must CRIMP FIRST in a Mobile application.

The vibrations and differences in the metals in the connectors and wire will LOOSEN and allow the connection to pull apart if you SOLDER alone.

Crimp first, then solder.

Most high amps connections 200 to 400 amps in DC voltage, the professionals dont even recommend soldering ...
because the advantage gained is soo small, versus the time and effort required.

If you solder alone.... it will fail . eventually.
Pulling a nice pretty solder plug right out of the connector...
leaving a nice hot wire to touch something conductive.

[Blitz]

Let me specify, the 10.008 amps is MAXIMUM, including a +++ 20 % reserve safety factor.
( I am speaking about Your spotlight load, assuming the bulbs are 100 watts each )


The real amps You are pulling ( from the spotlights ) is only 8.4 amps in reality.


Because the # 85 wire is designed for the Heater, and is fused at 15 amps from the factory, ( assuming you don't have a heater hooked up now )
you will be only pulling 8.4 amps "in reality" off that circuit "in totality".

NEC allows 15 amps on 14 gauge wire.

Some charts show up to 20 amps capacity on 14 gauge at 24 volts.

You will be more than fine and overly safe
connecting the spotlights as discussed here.
baby safe... and no worries .

TRY the 10 amp fuse first.
If it blows ever, i sure would not hesitate to pop in a 15 amp blade fuse.

And Yes, it will work perfectly off the Y connector.

I had to edit this to be perfectly clear, as I understand Type can be very confusing, especially with wiring,
and no one wants to melt a stock harness.

[Blitz]

sorry to beat a Horse...
Any questions, feel free.
anyone else, please correct if necessary.


When the truck is running, you will only be pulling 7.2 to 7.4 amps, depending on if Your alternator is putting out 27 volts or 27.5 ( i think 27.5 is the proper voltage output setting )

More voltage = less amps drawn, versus the 8.4 amps "sitting still" engine off, at 24 volts direct.

So for sure go with the 10 amp fuse blade, and protect the stock 15 amp fuse from popping.

The old stock orig. fuse may be tired and weak by now, and changing it might be harder than the new blade type fuse under the center of the dash.

14 gauge should be fine as far as 'civilian wire' to run to your spotlights.
Or if they already have the "military wire cord" on it... even better. Use it stock, as is.

If You do have a choice to 'run your own wire' from the spotlights back to the spider harness, I would, think go 12 ga and decrease the resistance and any voltage drop.

You may have the option to ground the lights at their mount "holes" ( not sure where you are gonna mount them ), but grounding to the frame is a good thing, cleaning off the paint to bare metal under the mount/ ground attachment point.

If there is a heater installed already...
we can recalculate the loads and figure something else out.

That will depend on the heater motor amp draw.

[fng]

Blitz, thanks a ton!

I plan to mount the lights on the windshield-to-cab mounts on fabricated perches. And yes the lights are 100watts each. Actually they are the ones listed on E-pay designed for a tank. They are already configured with the two douglas style connectors as part of the rear housing so wiring them in will be clean and look stock.

Thanks again for all the inputs and discussion.

[Blitz]

No problem FNG,

this is how I have fun.

[MJCougler]

I have a similar question because I would like to install an additional light to illuminate my gauges. I will need to tap into the Panel lights (1829) in the wiring diagram. Should I also purchase this Military Vehicle Rubber Connectors Adaptor 2-1, found here:

http://saturnsurplus.com/electrical/adpt1.htm

To use this connector, will I unplug the connector on the rear of one of the panel lights and plug this tap onto the cable, and then plug the tap onto the back of the panel light, and then plug my new light into the remaining jack on the tap connector?

I bent a piece of aluminum, painted it black, and I intend to mount it to the dash above the gauge panel assembly. I intend to mount two 12v 194 Wedge Base Sockets, that look like this:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ocket/703/963/

I intend to wire these sockets in series so I can use two 12v 194 lamps. These lamps will shine down from the bracket to illuminate the gauges.

I am not a purist, but I would like to splice into this cable in a professional manner. Any thoughts on whether this splice connector will work?