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Thread: Sandblasting Truckbed?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    I agree with Bob. Be clean, and be ready to paint! I always find that if I do the parts that are hardest to reach first, it makes the rest seem like a breeze. All the flat panels go pretty quickly anyway.

    Airbrushes can also be a helpful tool as well. If you set the spray pattern as big as it will go, and use a the largest bottle that will fit it, you can get into a lot of inaccessable places like the bottom of the bed rails. The only downside, is that most of them have very small paint bottle on them.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
    Posts
    1,505

    Default

    I had my entire truck stripped when doing the restore. The guy doing my blast work used sand to do the bed and said that it was a definate pain, as the old army paint was still tough as nails. Of course he is used to blasting on hot rods and classic cars wich usually don't have all the layers of paint build up like army trucks do. Heavy metal items like the bed, tailgate, frame, cab, and drivetrain got sand blasted. Lighter items like the hood, doors, fenders, and windshield frame were media blased with crushed walnut shells. I had every piece of metal on my 715 stripped to bare metal for just under $2000 here locally.

    Dave
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
    1968 M51 Inflatable Chemical Shelter System http://www.davidallenracing.com/M51.htm
    Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
    Posts
    1,505

    Default

    Oh, and also what others have said, be prepaired to paint right away to keep the chance of oxidation away. I worked out with the blaster the order I wanted pieces stripped so that I could paint and assemble in the order I needed to fit my work schedule on the truck. I would pick up a piece and get it back to the shop and immediatly get to painting on it.

    Dave
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
    1968 M51 Inflatable Chemical Shelter System http://www.davidallenracing.com/M51.htm
    Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

  4. #14

    Default

    I am in the process of doing my M35 now. I bought 10 bags of sand knowing I would need more but thought they would be enough to get the rear frame done. Ran short about 4-5 bags. The CARC paint is thick and takes some time to get it off.

    http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...126&highlight=

  5. #15

    Default

    When I did my M725 I had it blasted. It did ok. I can see some of the back panels warped but they showed some warping before we blasted it so I am not sure if it was from blasting or not. We used CARC and rushed the primer before it was dry. The CARC separated and cracked anywhere the primer was thick.

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