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Thread: Painting an M715

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    As a painter, I would think that would be sweet. I've never powder coated myself, I have noticed when you scratch it or chip it it is difficult to touch up. How would you handle touch ups and chips? I don't powder coat but have had stuff done for customers. I am assembling my truck now, and I know there will be scratches and chips in reassembly, however I can repair, touch up or repaint as neccessary. Just wondered how that all works when powder coating lots of pieces. Thanks Fisherman

  2. #22

    Default Repaintin'

    I agree with everyone. Gillespie Paint was easy to use and looks good. I have used Aervoe and it chipped, faded and was totally unforgiving. My advice is to take your time. Sand and prime as much as you can and then paint in sections to avoid overspray. Be sure to let the coats dry before applying another. It would be ideal to use 2-3 coats at least. It is time consuming, but the end result is worth it. Besides, if your not happy with the paint job, you just bought experience to paint it again later down the road.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
    Posts
    1,505

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ColHart View Post
    I own Armor powdercoat in CA. and have been blasting and coating for 10 years. Heat from sand blasting can destroy thin metal and easily warp it, as mentioned by Beast. Blasting of sheet metal car parts can be done with non-abrasive media. I would not suggest you practice on your own rig. Blasting is only one method of cleaning parts. Chemical paint removal, washing and etching is preferred for thin parts and is used in high volume houses where blasting is labor intensive.

    Powder thickness control is my specialty with state of the art equipment and proper part grounding.
    How hot does powder coating get to during baking? I think it would be hot enough to warp thin pieces like the hood.

    Dave
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
    Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    China Lake Naval Base, SoCal
    Posts
    222

    Unhappy

    Most powders cure when the substrate is at 375*F. Some newer low temp powders are able to reach thermoset at 300 to 325*F. Localized heat changes or coating in local sections may cause warping. Mild steel (1018), even as thin as 26ga with an even distribution of heat (convection oven) and coating will not warp at curing temperatures under 400*F. For example, cookie sheets do fine baking cookies at 425*F.

    A huge disadvantage to powdercoating auto skin is the standard bondo used, loses it's bond above 275*F. You have to use a very expensive, high temp metal filler to repair dents and rust holes. Powdercoating has its limitations. All insulated wires, grease, rust, oil, glass and water have to be removed during prep.

    You can't just drive your M715 into a booth and powdercoat it, then drive away.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Thanks for the tutoral. I didn't know most of that about powder coating.

    Do your truck however you want. From you business point of view, I think a complete powder coated M truck would be a great advertisement parked in front of your shop. You obviously have the knowledge and facilities to do it. The rest of us don't and are all Gillespie converts.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    long island new york
    Posts
    227

    Default

    Anyone tried 'rust bullet' paint rust preventative paint yet?

  7. #27

    Default

    when i painted my truck w the gillespie i used "gloss hardner" in the paint, and it has been 10 yrs now and the paint has recently gotten bad but only in like the last couple yrs the hardner really improved the durabilty and it doesnt add any actual gloss just made the paint more durable. Im just not sure they still make gloss hardner since enamel paints are passe for modern cars.

  8. #28

    Default

    The color issue has me confused-anyone know of a "paint chip" site and or example so I can tell what color my truck was??? The outside is currently a lovely shade of DNR fire control red--the only clue I have is the interior and under the hood. ed if it doesnt look different than every picture on here?? I know it likely changed over the last 40 years but it looks darker than the OD green on Beasts truck but doenst look like the USMC green either?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
    Posts
    1,505

    Default

    Here is the color chip picture from Army Jeep Parts;


    It is more than likely 24087, It is a wierd color. Mine looks darker in person than in a lot of the pictures.

    Dave
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M715 weapons carrier:http://www.davidallenracing.com/M715.htm
    1967 Kaiser Jeep M35a2 2.5 ton cargo truck: http://www.davidallenracing.com/M35A2.htm
    Delta Team Decals: http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Pull the data plate holder plate or the door panels. The paint behind those areas is usually the original non faded one.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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