Tips for removing rear wheel cylinders and lines

[brute4c]

OK...I know several people have been very frustrated by the limited clearance in the rear to get the wheel cylinder bolts out and the rear lines off...I just removed them today, as mine are totally wasted, heres how it worked out...

First, jack up the truck and pull the tires and drums, making sure to mark the drum so that it can be put back on in the same orientation it was in when the job started. I used a paint pen to color 1 stud end and made a ring around the hole for that stud.

Once that was done, I disassembled the brake shoes and springs...you wouldnt necessarily have to but in this case, the inside of the drum is thick with mess and i want to clean it up...its ugly!

I tried to loosen the line at the wheel cylinder with a 7/16ths line wrench, no go, even though the lines look to be in really good shape. If yours does come off, so much the better! If not...
The line wrench was trying to jump the corners on the brake line hex fitting. I also tried a thick hex wrench, it wasnt budging but really working to round corners. I stopped on the wheel cylinder end and went to the block on top of the axle where the metal line hooks up. Here I was able to unscrew the line...a small triumph. If you cant get either end off, I know that sucks, cut the brake line as close as you can on one end to the hex fitting. Since you need to change the line anyway, I would cut it at the block on the axle as it will be easier to get at. Once the line is cut. use a 6 point socket in 7/16ths to take the hex fitting out of the block.

With the line off on that end, I went to the bolts holding the wheel cylinder on. Now a 1/2 inch 6 point socket is recommended in 3/8ths drive...the shortest socket you can get in that size. There is not a lot of room here with the leaf spring u bolts in the way and the top plate the u bolts go through overhanging things making it more crowded and difficult.
The "secret" is to work on the bolt behind the axle centerline from the front side and the bolt in front of the axle centerline from the rear...and hold the ratchet handle low. Come in from the bottom and go up and across the axle centerline and work the socket on the bolt on the opposite side that the socket is coming from...its tight but it does work. Loosen that bolt and then change to the other and loosen the other bolt.

Once both bolts are out, you can remove the wheel cylinder. If the line came loose from the wheel cylinder, your golden.
If it came apart like mine, at the axle tee fitting, turn the wheel cylinder as you pull the line through to get the line out without breaking/mangling it. If you still are unable to get it out, then cut the line as close to the fitting as possible. Save the line so you have a pattern for the new one you'll need to make...this is what I have to do. You can work a wrench over the hex fitting at the far end of the line, away from the wheel cylinder, and slide it to the wheel cylinder end and try to loosen the line out of the vehicle where you have more room to work....no guarantee but possible if the corners of the hex aren't too rounded from trying to get it off before...mine wouldn't budge so a new piece it is.

I know they are really tight back there and this can be frustrating but I hope this makes sense and spares someone a little time getting these things changed...

[Kaiserjeeps]

Good stuff ! Thank you!