Dual Line Master Cylinder choices

[brute4c]

OK...jeepdan used a 1 inch Dorman M56193 master cylinder with passenger side line connections...reference thread:

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...er-Dual-Master


Warthog documented the 1 1/6th bore A1 Cardone 10-1331 with drivers side line connections...reference thread:

http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthrea...ersion-Upgrade


OK...I see that the passenger side lines might be straighter and easier to do...also gets closer to a V8 but there should be enough room and flexibility to run them there...so either style seems like it would work.


For reference:

The Dorman master has the same bore as the stock M715 master, 1 inch, and this was used in these Jeep trucks:
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J3800 1968 -1968
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J2500 1968 -1970
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J3600 1968 -1970
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J3500 1968 -1970
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J2600 1968 -1970
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J2700 1968 -1969
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J3700 1968 -1970
Jeep - Kaiser Corp Gladiator J2800 1968 -1968


The A1 Cardone with the 1 1/16ths inch bore was used in these Chevy trucks...and comparable GMC trucks I didnt bother to list:
Chevrolet C20 3/4 Ton - Pickup 1967 -1970
Chevrolet C30 1 Ton - Pickup 1967 -1970
Chevrolet Suburban K20 3/4 Ton 4WD 1967 -1970
Chevrolet Suburban C20 3/4 Ton 1967 -1970
Chevrolet P20 3/4 Ton - Step Van 1968 -1970
Chevrolet K20 3/4 Ton 4WD - Pickup 1967 -1970
Chevrolet G30/3500 1 Ton - Van 1970 -1970
Chevrolet P30 1 Ton - Step Van 1968 -1970
Chevrolet K20 Panel Delivery 1967 -1970
Chevrolet C20 Panel Delivery 1967 -1970


My question is does the bore size matter much? Is the larger or smaller better? It seems that both would work and its a matter of what the owner wants.
Note: I am not looking to add power and am keeping otherwise stock brakes...well...I am adding the modern wheel cylinders but those have stock dimensions so they shouldnt change the function in any way I can see.

[Barrman]

I have the 1” Corvette master cylinder on mine. Stopping was great but pedal effort was very high with no power assist. I drove one of Kwai’s trucks and complimented him on the very easy to push power brakes. He laughed and said it wasn’t power, just the bigger bore master cylinder. Size does matter.

Whatever you do, get an aluminum body master with the plastic tank. My 1976 Corvette cast iron thing rust. Even running silicone brake fluid.

The Full Size Jeep “wedge” between the firewall and the master/booster angle the master up which gives clearance over the engine.

Being the idiot I am, I didn’t do any of what I just wrote and instead installed a Hydroboost upside down without a wedge to clear my V8.

[brute4c]

Appreciate the reply Tim!
So bigger bore is better...sweet!

On the rust, the one from Napa says it has a rust preventative coating...not sure what that is but wonder how effective it is...this is the 10-1331 style they sell:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMCM36246

Does the wedge work with OR without a booster to angle the master or just with the booster/master combo? If it works without a booster, I wil need one...

If you are an idiot....Im a deluxe moron...

[brute4c]

Anyone heard of this to get rid of and prevent rust?

https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

Says it lasts 2 years with one application...comes in a spray can on Amazon...spray a new master an spray again every 18-24 months and maybe that would work?

[Barrman]

Hmmm. I have no experience with that product.