Camper Special

[BEHEMOTH]

Are you going to chop off the extra spring perch on your 14 bolt? or just leave it there?

[Panther]

Behemoth, that's a cool username. I really don't have a reason to cut the perch, could easy enough if it's in the way of the shock mount. The axles were a set from a cucv, back several pages you'll notice the difference in spring perch width both front and rear, you can see how I had to widened them.

Forgot how much I missed that smell guys! Got her fired up today.
The gauge of the stock battery cable just isn't cutting it for the cummins. What did the job was using the thicker gauge and battery up front (along with the cable to the rear batteries). Generator also came in handy but thare she blows!!!

http://youtu.be/3GmZVAU1jyk

[BEHEMOTH]

Thanks,
BEHEMOTH is what I'm calling my truck. It is a good description of our trucks.

If the spring perches aren't in the way I would leave them for now. Learn from my mistake. After I put on new spring perches on my 14bolt and D60 to match the spring location, I realized later that the tires I'm planning to put on would rub on the leaf springs during turns. So, I relocated the leaf spring mounts and found where I moved the springs to was where the original perch mounts were. I could kick myself.

[Panther]

Thanks,
BEHEMOTH is what I'm calling my truck. It is a good description of our trucks.

Sure is. To add a little history, the word comes from old testament Hebrew for the word "beast", often used as "beast of the field", that certainly describes our trucks. Then in the book of Job chapter 40 is an animal called "behemoth" that sounds like a description of a dinosaur, some might say our trucks are dinosaurs, lol

[Panther]

So the power and air systems are coming along if you see the "storage box" thread. Next up will be solar. I got a roof rack from a wrangler that I'll mount the solar panel(s) too.


I'm looking at this Renogy 100 watt kit, thoughts?
http://www.renogy-store.com/100W-Mon...tarter100d.htm

Also, I bought a Lokar shifter from Kamikaze12volts that I'm waiting to come from Canada, thanks again man! Geez it was 4 years ago we started on a deal for that shifter.

Still collecting parts as I go, more to come.

[Troop ISP]

Your truck is looking great. If I had planned everything out I would have gone 6BT. I like the thought of off road camping. I want to eventually take mine to Colorado and do some higher elevation off road camping. Your setup would perfect. Any predictions on when you might have it road worthy?

[Panther]

Getting the doner truck was the key for this build. Sure I'm stuck with the a518 when I'd like to have the nv4500, that means I have to keep the pcm for shifting.

One thing I forgot to mention is wiring, I'm going into each wire taking what I don't need in the engine compartment. Id also like to retro the AC so the computer and wiring is kept for that as well. My other challenge is $. This is a budget build. I used to spent in 2 months what I have in the whole project, just have to be patient, look for deals. Hard to tell when I can have it on the road, took a break for while but sheesh, I started before you and yours looks great and runs!

I love the truck I'm in it right now, have loud neighbors partying on the weekend so I crash in the truck, lol

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

[Blitz]

The solar kit looks like the best deal out there.
Monocrystalline is the way to go, and thats the black looking cells that you chose.

Here is the same kit you linked, but its 10 bucks cheaper and free shipping.
It comes from Baton Rouge, Louisiana,.. so shipping might be quicker too.

These panels can be interconnected in the future, and they have the standard connector fittings, that most panels have today.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271211938333?lpid=82

I have to say , I like how they stress using fuses in multiple places, and their diagrams are excellent.



On the roof rack, until you get more panels, leave yourself some room on the rack to store other stuff, and when you get some additional panels... just rearrange them then.

Excellent find.
Good shopping skills.

The 30 amp charge controller that comes n the kit, beats all the competition out there, as most only offer a 10 amp in their kit for the same or usually higher prices.

25 year output warranty...

The best out there is 30 years...

I dont think you can go wrong with this system.

The only thing I would do, is use larger cables to interconnect Your battery bank, and the cables going to the inverter, than you think you need.

It will cut down on the power line loss, and allow you to expand your bank AND inverter in the future, using the same interconnects.

They recommend 4 gauge... to the inverter

Go at least 1/0.

MCM cable would be overkill for now, but on the battery bank 3/0 would not be for interconnecting the batts...

If you get this setup... with your generator /air pump / lawnmower engine rig...
Your next purchase will be more batteries... and go from the 3 you have to 6.

This will last you a lifetime. ( besides x class solar flares or emp's ... lol )
Awesome project and immediately tangible results.

[Panther]

Good eye Blitz, there's another without the brackets on ebay for $154. That's what I'll probably go with but I'm glad you like it. What I will call them and ask is if the standard set 12.5 volts can be adjusted and increased with the charge controller. Ideally it would go up to 14. That charge controller is probably a cheap starter, eventually with more panels it would be upgraded to mmpt or whatever the standard is.

The rack is 71" long and 52" wide. I'm glad to have it to protect the panels from trees and branches on the trail.

I will redo the wiring. Right now the starter battery is temporarily up front to start the cummins. I will move it in the box with others once I go to thicker gauge.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

[Blitz]

just noticed something about the charge controller...

You would need to dedicate the battery bank to the system, and not use one of the batteries for the starting/ run engine battery.

here is a little note they put at the bottom of the specs on the charge controller:

quote:
Please Note: These are Positive Ground Controllers. If grounding is necessary, it must be completed on the positive line. If the controller is to be used on a vehicle which has battery negative on the chassis, loads connected to the controller must not have an electrical connection to the vehicle body.
end quote.

https://www.renogy-store.com/30-amp-...ctrl-pwm30.htm

float the ground on your battery bank, and just dont tie the neg post of any of the batteries ( in your off grid bank ) to the vehicle chassis.
Or any loads. like 110 volt motors grounded to the vehicle.