Rust treatments

[randyscycle]

I had a run of using Permatex rust treatment from Napa. It is completely worthless and delaminated allowing oxygen to waste away more metal under the coating.

I've used it for quite a long time and had good experience with it, both on rusty and new stripped metal. There are two different kinds of it though. One is rust treatment and the other is rust preventer or something like that. They both come in the same size/style bottle and are only 1 or 2 part numbers off. The cheaper rust preventer doesn't do anything at all and doesn't adhere well. The rust treatment turns black and has a strong chemical smell when applied. Its been on my M715 seams and welds for 3 years now and no problems to report.

[mstaley]

Thanks everybody for your input. Right now I'm deciding between the osphos and zero-rust. If I can find someplace local to get osphos, I'll try it first.

[militarypotts]

This OSPHO product sounds like a dream come true for Auto And Truck restorers. Personally, I've never heard of it. It's kinda nice to know that it can be purchased at Ace and True Value hardware stores. Thanks for the information. Much appreciated.

[wingtime]

Ospho rocks! It's not a new product by any means. I have seen POR-15 just peel off of frames. Ospho is phosphoric acid. It reacts with the iron oxide converting it to iron phosphate which is black. I last bought it at Ace.

[moose3d]

I bought mine 2 months ago from jamestown Distributors, fast shipping. I found it works great too.

[77amc]

I just ordered and received some 'Rust Bullet' just because it was a little cheaper than Por15.
I'm doing the under side of the bed and frame as far as I can get up in there.
I steam cleaned the frame and under bed areas and sprayed on their "Metal blast" that etches old paint, surface rust (turning it somewhat black).

It states to 'buff' with a towel after rinsing with water.? Like heck I'm gonna try and get in every nook and cranny..
It's more of a pewter gray color that's a little tooo light for me. I'll have to see what it looks like after. It also states to use 2-coats. I think that I'll just use the one heavy coat and then some rattle can satin black or dark gray on the seen framework underneath.
Clean-up uses Keyolyne??

3-bottles of metal blast
2-qts of their silver coating and ship cost me about 145.00

I forgot what I paid for the POR, but it did work fine on the top of my 72 Monte Carlo that rusted under the vinyl top. BUT it does not hold up to sunlight for a long time. Get's powdery/chalky after a few months. (ended up sellin before a new top was installed)

Then there's "Zero Rust" also.. Never used it but see it in Hemmings Motor news.
Errol

[mstaley]

After getting caught up on some home projects I'm finally getting back to the 715. Bought some ospho and have tested it on some other small projects I've been working on. So far I have had good results. Found it at my local Ace Hardware. $23/gal. They were the only local retailer that didn't make me buy a whole case.

[Flingarrows]

After getting caught up on some home projects I'm finally getting back to the 715. Bought some ospho and have tested it on some other small projects I've been working on. So far I have had good results. Found it at my local Ace Hardware. $23/gal. They were the only local retailer that didn't make me buy a whole case.

I had to buy it online and pay the shipping. My local Ace would only order it if I bought the whole case

[randyscycle]

I was thinking about this today, because I was just dealing with a very rusty frame:

I've used a number of products over the years in both personal projects and restorations for customers.

POR and the like are an OK product, but they tout them as being able to paint over rust and all your problems are solved. I've found that even just removing the rust scale and using these type of products doesn't really fix the problem. The theory is that encapsulating the rust and cutting off the oxygen will stop the oxidizing. However, unless you can be absolutely certain that there is zero moisture, and zero oxygen, you cannot stop the process of rusting.

The rust converters "sorta" work, but again, they don't really address the issue of what's left behind. The stuff you see on the surface is converted and turned black, but most of those chemicals don't penetrate more than the surface and again, you are left with the same situation.

Total removal is the best way, although I do realize that it isn't always feasible to sandblast a frame or other large object then prime it with an etching primer, add a sealer then paint it. Certainly these chemicals are better than nothing at all, but they do have their limits no matter the brand.

Just some things to keep in mind......