Another change of plans... 6.2 Hyd Clutch?

[foodstamp]

ive had a stock chevy set up hydro clutch in my kaiser for a while now, i bought a hydro clutch bell housing, slave cyl, master cyl, and line, it was an awesom fit. i just shortened the master cyl rod an threaded it for a small heim joint. this was a few years ago, i was probably 16 when i did it so anyone could lol

[foodstamp]

ill see if i can find any better pics

[Flingarrows]

thanks for the pics, foodstamp. That is a very clean engine compartment

[foodstamp]

[Flingarrows]

Awesome, thanks foodstamp

[Flingarrows]

GM slave & MC guys: are the fittings metric? I am trying to order a shorter hose since mine will be on the drivers side, and the stock GM hose run to the pass side. None of the descriptions mention fitting size on the slave or MC.

I took my parts to the local hardware store to see if I could find the thread pitch. 7/16-20 would thread all the way in, but its slightly loose.

I ordered a JIC hose from Granger, thinking that possible the 7/16-20 on the JIC may have some sort of taper like npt. No dice. Unfortunately, the counter guy at Granger didnt have any metric stuff in stock to try to size it up.

I am going to stop by a hydraulic shop on Monday to see if they can make a hose, but if someone knows the pitch and type, I may be able to order one online.

[40Grit]

can you post what info you find on thread type?

[Flingarrows]

Absolutely, 40.

The Hydraulic parts guy refereed me to a local guy. I assume that he does alot of machinery (forklifts, etc) because he is a roving 1 man shop with a cell phone number. We have talked a few times, but haven't met up yet because of my schedule. He says he specializes in "industrial" but should be able to help me out.

I'll find out the fitting sizes, and if the price is reasonable, see if I can get a fixed price for the hose. I have the part numbers for the slave and MC. I'll post up after i get it working

[syzygy]

I spent hours and hours trying to find a clutch master and slave pair that would do everything I wanted. I have the 6.2/NV4500 with GM bell. I was hoping to have threaded attachments for both master and slave so I could custom bend/flare a metal line.

Sadly none of the slaves available at NAPA had the right bolt width to match up to the bell holes except the kind with the roll-pin-secured plastic lines, which I *really* wanted to avoid. In the end I just went with complete master/slave/stupid-plastic-line setup for a "1994 Chevrolet Truck K3500 1 Ton 4WD - Pickup 6.5"

Napa part numbers: 350042 - NNC - Clutch Master Cylinder, 360027 - NNC - Clutch Slave Cylinder, & 801-5051 - BK - Clutch Hose.

The combo was way more expensive than any of the other individual parts I could find, but it was the only way I could make all the parts work together right. Either the bore sizes were mismatched or the bolt holes wouldn't line up or it had the wrong type of pushrod. Very frustrating but in the end I got a system that works, and all the parts from the same vehicle...

Sounds like some others have had better luck... and if you have a different bellhousing you may be in better shape than I was. I just didn't want to have to go too crazy making brackets to make everything fit. The only bracket I ended up making was to go on the clutch pedal itself, very similar to the two that have already been shown here.

Also as Barrman said the chevy hydro bell hits the front driveshaft and front axle's yoke -- I took out the driveshaft just to play around with it and it worked great until I hit a bump and cracked the stupid slave cyl. I was toying with a springover anyway so rather than go find a different bell I just went sprung over to get the clearance I needed.

[Flingarrows]

I spent hours and hours trying to find a clutch master and slave pair that would do everything I wanted. I have the 6.2/NV4500 with GM bell. I was hoping to have threaded attachments for both master and slave so I could custom bend/flare a metal line.

Sadly none of the slaves available at NAPA had the right bolt width to match up to the bell holes except the kind with the roll-pin-secured plastic lines, which I *really* wanted to avoid. In the end I just went with complete master/slave/stupid-plastic-line setup for a "1994 Chevrolet Truck K3500 1 Ton 4WD - Pickup 6.5"

Napa part numbers: 350042 - NNC - Clutch Master Cylinder, 360027 - NNC - Clutch Slave Cylinder, & 801-5051 - BK - Clutch Hose.

The combo was way more expensive than any of the other individual parts I could find, but it was the only way I could make all the parts work together right. Either the bore sizes were mismatched or the bolt holes wouldn't line up or it had the wrong type of pushrod. Very frustrating but in the end I got a system that works, and all the parts from the same vehicle...

Sounds like some others have had better luck... and if you have a different bellhousing you may be in better shape than I was. I just didn't want to have to go too crazy making brackets to make everything fit. The only bracket I ended up making was to go on the clutch pedal itself, very similar to the two that have already been shown here.

Also as Barrman said the chevy hydro bell hits the front driveshaft and front axle's yoke -- I took out the driveshaft just to play around with it and it worked great until I hit a bump and cracked the stupid slave cyl. I was toying with a springover anyway so rather than go find a different bell I just went sprung over to get the clearance I needed.

Thanks for the info. I am using the standard bellhousing: cant find a hydro for a reasonable price, but sounds like a better option with DS clearance. So now i need a shorter line. I ended up using a matched slave and mc from an 89-91 k2500. Rockauto.com had the best pricing, I think about $30-35 each.

I'll need to make a bracket for both sides. I'll just kind of use the Novak Adapter version for the template on the BH side, and Barrmans trick for the pedal side